Europe For The Senses

Dorotheenhütte: Hidden Gem of the Black Forest

2007-08-31T18:54:00.000-07:00

Germany’s Black Forest hides many delightful secrets amid its thick foliage. In this land of fairytales and half-timbered houses lies a little glass factory, practicing the methods of a time long past. Located in the town of Wolfach, the Dorotheenhütte Glass Museum brings the traditions of yesterday alive for today’s visitors.

Proudly known as the ‘Black Forest’s only hand-blown glass factory’, Dorotheenhütte walks its guests through 2,000 years of glass history. The museum section of the complex shows how the art of glass-making has evolved over the years as well as displays tool and mold artifacts from long ago. Masters can be observed creating and grinding delicate crystal stemware by hand - each cut a carefully calculated combination of angle and pressure.

Dorotheenhütte also gives their visitors the opportunity to try their hand at glass blowing – fascinating and fun when considering one rarely gets the invitation to ‘touch’ and ‘try it out’ when fragile objects are concerned. Standing near the 2,642 degree inferno of fire and molten glass leaves one uncomfortably warm, yet it develops a sense of awe for the master who endures this heat for his love of the art. Take a deep breath and blow with all your might as a tiny bubble forms in the glowing shapeless mass at the other end of a long metal tube. The master coaxes for more air, more pressure, more strength as your cheeks start to tingle and your face turns bright red. You get a very short break as you pick out different color chips for the blob that will eventually become a shapely vase. The master has you blow into the tube again as he twists and shapes the vase then flings it almost madly through the air as you wonder how close he’s getting to the floor and the crowd. The glass cools enough to cut it off the tube and the vase must cool longer before being handled. The glass blowing workshop is absolutely free – only pay a nominal fee if you want to take your work of art home with you (since the vase must cool first, this give you plenty of time to peruse the rest of the complex).

Dorotheenhütte’s ‘Glass Paradise’ is appropriately named as it is truly a heaven for shoppers. The room brilliantly sparkles as each overhead light, perfectly positioned, splashes bright reflections and color over everything. Shelves and display tables are stocked full of finished vases, such as those blown in the free workshop, sets of stemware of all shapes and shades, figurines, candleholders, hanging balls that shine like stained glass, and anything else imaginable for home décor. ‘Glass Paradise’ leads into ‘Christmas Village’, full of enchanting seasonal ornaments and decorations throughout the entire year. Twinkling lights border the aisles of fluffy snow and delicate items that are practically bursting with holiday spirit. Whether spending a lot or a little, Dorotheenhütte’s experienced staff gently packs each find in protective paper to cushion its journey from Wolfach. They also offer international shipping options for those who would rather have their purchases meet them at home. Finally, after a day of blowing glass and shopping, visitors can relax in Dorotheenhütte’s charming restaurant. Have a full meal of delicious German cuisine or simply a warm drink and a pastry to reenergize as you admire the traditional wood décor.

Dorotheenhütte is a one-of-a-kind experience in the Black Forest region of Germany. Although it seems to be hiding among the dark trees, it welcomes each person with its enthusiasm and talent for the beautiful art of glassmaking.

Lake Constance: Holiday on the Bodensee

2007-08-24T09:41:00.001-07:00

August is ‘vacation month’ for many Europeans. Shops close, traffic congests at all hours of the day, and a vacant hotel room is almost impossible to find. So, where do you go if you already live in a country where international tourists flock to? Many go to the peacefully blissful shores of Lake Constance.

Image visiting three different countries in only one day! It’s possible on Lake Constance. Called ‘The Bodensee’ in German, the lake laps at the shores of Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. Visitors have several options when exploring this area – by scenic car ride, on a relaxing cruise via ferry boat, or to really experience the area’s personality – ride the bicycle trail, stopping at each and every charming village on the route. Whatever mode of transportation is preferred, the visitor will be enchanted by the history, the atmosphere, and the breathtaking views of the snow-capped Alps.

A visit to the Bodensee begs the question, “how much can I possibly see while I’m here?” because there are so many options. On the German side of the lake, Meersburg is charming, boasts an old and a new castle, has a bustling pedestrian zone, and enough half-timbered houses to send the tourist back in time to an era less rushed. In contract, Birnau Abbey, a Baroque pilgrimage church, seems like a humble loner from the outside – standoffish and silent above the reflecting waters. A step inside her sanctuary shows she’s anything but shy. The exquisite frescoes, towering walls, and an influx of light so brilliant that it momentarily halts her guests, as if reminding them of the greater scheme of things. The town of Langenargen boasts an unusual Moorish castle – its unexpected style feels out of place among the traditional German buildings. Yet as the sun sets over the serene lake, the castle begins to glow with a sense of belonging. Even the waters seem to agree as they reflect a mirror image of Moorish radiance.

On the Austrian side, the town of Bregenz offers tall gothic towers, onion-shaped cupolas, and castle ruins at the very top of a mountain. One wonders if the residents of this town look out of their windows and stare in awe at the sheer magnificence they live and work in each and every day. Or does the landscape become a mere backdrop – no longer overwhelming them with a deep love of the natural beauty?

On the Swiss side of the lake, Romanshorn mixes the traditional with the contemporary. It, too has adorable half-timbered houses but it also contrasts these with its modern port and many modern tourist attractions. Minigolf, swimming pools, and playgrounds give the visitor a relaxing break from the area’s history…yet still remains grounded in a time past.

There are many more little towns and larger cities along the banks of this tranquil lake, however it’s the small island of Mainau that should not be missed. No one lives on this little seven kilometer long piece of land surrounded by the waters except a count and his family, yet it feels like a secret garden of sorts. Nicknamed ‘the garden island’, Mainau bursts with almost every type of plant life imaginable. From common flowers to tropical trees, each species thrives in the unusually warm climate the island experiences. The little island is an easy ferry ride from any of the ports along the lake – a ride effortlessly enjoyed with a warm cup of cappuccino or hot chocolate.

Lake Constance can be considered ‘the’ vacation spot of the German people. Each city feels like a seaside retreat with relaxing comforts and captivating sites. While a ‘melting pot’ of three beautiful countries, the Bodensee is the perfect place to unwind – whether that involves doing absolutely nothing on a waterfront bench while eating ice cream or taking in centuries of history while shopping, playing golf, or exploring museums. ‘The Bodensee’ translates to ‘holiday’ in any language.

Wuerttemberg Memorial Chapel: Tribute to a Young Queen

2007-07-21T08:41:00.000-07:00

Perched atop a vineyard-covered hill, the lonely Wuerttemberg Memorial Chapel enjoys a magnificent view of the Stuttgart area’s wine country. Although it sits in reverent silence, the chapel proclaims the timeless love of King Wilhelm I for his deceased bride, Katharina. The two now share this secluded resting place, together for eternity.

In 1819, Wilhelm and the people of Wuerttemberg lost their beloved queen at the tender age of 31. This queen had given much of her own money to further the social development of the area, including a girls’ school, hospitals, and an institution for charity – even during the extremely difficult years of famine. The enormous Wuerttemberg Hill, home to the family’s old 11th century fortress, had been a favorite place of Katharina’s. Shortly after her death, Wilhelm had the ancient fortress leveled so he could build something truly symbolic of his devotion for her. Italian architect Giovanni Salucci had been employed as the court architect and was soon put to work designing an appropriate new haunt for young queen.

The result of Salucci’s work was a neo-classic rotunda with an airy, arching dome inspired by Rome’s Pantheon. Towering Corinthian columns, stucco rosettes, and marble statues all of the palest hues reflect peace and rest as the dome’s incoming sunlight is subdued to a gentle glow. Warmly detailed cast iron accents the coolness of the circular room and is used for the doors, window frames, and a ventilated portion of the floor directly under the soaring dome. Since Katharina was a member of the Russian Orthodox Church, Wilhelm made sure that this aspect of his wife’s existence was also remembered with fitting icons and services. Even to this day, Orthodox worship is conducted in the chapel once a year on Whit Monday. Katharina quietly sleeps below in the chapel’s dark crypt, surrounded by a massive white sarcophagus, where she patiently waited for Wilhelm to join her 45 years later. Their daughter, Marie, lies nearby and remains the only other soul in the tomb. Although the crypt is simple and unadorned in décor, the cast iron floor above allows light to pour in and paint decorative patterns on the cold stones that support the chapel’s foundation. Since this iron floor/ceiling lies right under the dome, the royal couple enjoys an everlasting view of the heavens.

In addition to being a monument of love and Italian architecture, the chapel is something of an acoustical phenomenon. Sounds originating in the crypt reverberate off the hard stone walls as well as travel up through the cast iron floor to bounce around the spacious dome. Secondary echoes from the crypt also travel skyward to create deafening slap-echoes which live several seconds before dissipating. This amazing sound effect brings an unusual energy and life to a place enveloped in death and remembrance.

On its isolated peak on Wuerttemberg Hill, the memorial chapel leaves the visitor with a profound sense of marital love. Visible from even miles away, the structure immortalizes one man’s devotion to his wife. Romantic, too in the sense that the pair have this secluded spot to themselves forever.

A Tuscan State of Mind

2007-07-14T07:30:00.000-07:00

Sometimes traveling isn’t just about going to a destination; it’s a state of mind. Physically, I’ve been trapped in South Carolina for seven months now while mentally I try and put myself back in my favorite European places. One of my very favorites is the Tuscany region of Italy. While the city in South Carolina is a blistering desert of concrete, Tuscany radiates a rejuvenating warmth that washes over you like the rolling green of the hills.

Since I’m currently unable to experience the area in person, I can only do what I can to substitute the experience. CDs full of pictures taken during my travels bring back stifled laughs and fond memories. The coffee table books I’ve collected over the years are so full of intense color and vivid landscape scenes that it makes my ache even worse. I even read “Under the Tuscan Sun” this week (which isn’t done justice by the movie). Mayes is such a descriptive writer. She does such a perfect job bringing the area to life and I believe, deserves much credit for putting Cortona on the map. Her book stirs memories of my one day in this little town – hot chocolate and pastries at a little café in the morning, gelato under a patio umbrella in the pouring rain, and linen shopping after the sun triumphed over the stubborn clouds. It almost makes me forget that my ‘gelato’ is now Eddy’s or something from Dairy Queen.

I also try to substitute with cooking – of course, I’m far from the authentic cuisine I once savored in the local family-owned restaurants. Tortellini al forno, penne al’arabiatta, even plain old spaghetti marinara is a work of art in Tuscany. I throw basil around like it’s going out of style, get all giddy when I find a sweet gorgonzola or pecorino cheese at the grocery store, and keep Verdi on full volume while I create my own personal Italy in the kitchen. Fortunately, I’ve been able to bring back the very best extra virgin olive oil in the entire country – La Macchia. The green, aromatic oil tastes so fresh and so light that you taste what you are meant to taste – the fruit of the olive tree – and not something reminiscent to wheel bearing grease. So even if my bruschetta is made from imported North Carolina tomatoes, South Carolina french bread, parmesan from Kraft, and dried basil from a lousy little plastic jar (out of fresh basil again…), I still have my beautiful drizzling Tuscan olive oil.

Italians also understand and appreciate the concept of ‘breaks’ (and not the 15 minute kind). Time doesn’t rule a Tuscan’s day, rather it revolves around life at the moment. I rush from one end of my current hometown to the other, running errands and trying to make it to appointments on time – in Italy, being late is ‘normale’. And when it gets to lunchtime, there’s no rushing through the meal and then jumping back into a schedule. Between the shining sun at its zenith and a full stomach that’s pulling you into a food coma, the day calls for a siesta. This ingenious concept not only refreshes the body but it literally pulls your mind into another world. Why fret about the next two hours when everyone else’s life has also come to a relaxing standstill? Daydream, watch the tall grasses blow in the wind, or drink a cappuccino among friends with a vineyard as a backdrop. Until the notion of a daily siesta takes hold in America, I attempt to create my own with plastic patio furniture and a Coca-Cola…that is, until the phone starts to ring with endless telemarketers anxious to sell me siding or refinance my mortgage.

There are just some places that feed your soul and remain in your heart no matter where you go. The rise and fall of the graceful hills, the glittery silver-green leaves of the olive trees, the way the aged bricks glow in the last rays of the evening sun all call me back for more. In the meantime, though, I’ll remain in a Tuscan state of mind.

Oberammergau: Devoted to a Passionate Promise

2007-07-07T07:11:00.000-07:00

The little village of Oberammergau is more than just another charming German town. It’s a place where history is full of faith and sincere gratitude. It’s a place that oozes of timeless moments. And it’s a place where a promise to God has been kept for almost 400 years. Oberammergau is truly the soul of Bavaria.

Located in southern Germany not far from the Austrian border, Oberammergau is adorably charismatic and enchanting. Streets are lined with half-timbered houses whose flower boxes are exploding with brilliant red blooms. Many of the buildings are adorned with ‘lüftlmalerei’ – ornate fresco-like paintings on the outside walls, meant to display the residents’ religious beliefs or family occupation. Since Oberammergau is a deeply religious town, many of the paintings depict saints or other characters from the Bible. However, two houses – nicknamed the ‘Red Riding Hood House’ and the ‘Hansel and Gretel House’ – are colorfully painted with children and are said to have inspired the classic fairytales of the same name.

Oberammergau is also home to some of the most talented woodcarvers in Germany. These thriving little businesses offer exquisite hand and machine-cut plates, bowls, decorative items, toys, and religious icons. Visitors can not only browse a shop’s selection but observe as the resident master creates a work of art out of a simple block of wood. The fresh scent of sawdust and wood chips linger in the air around the stores as if drawing customers in with a signature perfume.

Despite all of its charm and beauty, the magnetism of Oberammergau is its emotional Passion Play. Back in the dark days of the Thirty Years War, the little town watched as Europe fell victim to an even harsher enemy – Plague. This menace brutally ravaged home after home, community after community, city after city and leaving almost no one in its wake. As this Black Death crept over Oberammergau’s borders and her population started to feel its grip, the town cried out to a higher power for help. Not wanting to be obliterated as other places had been, the citizens made a solemn promise to God – the desperate prayer of a desperate people. They swore that if God saved their town, they’d reenact the story of Christ’s death and resurrection every ten years as a commemoration of His mercy. They made this ultimate deal in 1633 and by 1634, they were ready to make good on their bargain. Although Oberammergau lost some to the deadly disease, the town as a whole escaped extinction and the Passion Play began its long-running history. Its first performance was held in the town cemetery, perhaps so even the plague’s final victims could look upon this promise upheld. Even now in these modern times where religion sometimes falls in the cracks, the citizens of Oberammergau refuse to tempt fate and remain faithful to their ancestor’s word. Their beautiful rendition of ‘the greatest story ever told’ runs a whopping six hours and is performed in an open-air theater through all kinds of weather.

Picturesque and eternally grateful, Oberammergau takes its promises very seriously. The next ‘installment’ of that promise is scheduled for May-September 2010.

Monrepos Castle: Ludwigsburg’s Silent Charmer

2007-06-23T16:04:00.000-07:00

The exquisite baroque Residence Castle steals the thunder in the town of Ludwigsburg, Germany. Its proud and stately demeanor vies any other historical building in the area. However, the quiet little Schloss Monrepos sits on the outskirts of town – and proves to be just as charming.

Monrepos is a ‘newer’ castle, dating back to the 18th century. The delicate rococo facade cheerfully greets the visitor as they enter the grounds and the grand double staircase is an elegant focal point. In fact, many brides can be seen using this spot for their wedding photographs. The appeal of the castle is actually in back, where the stairs descend and dip their cold toes into the quiet lake. Swans and ducks keep the stone statues company as they guard this rear access to the palace.

The castle itself is actually privately owned and closed to the public but that doesn’t diminish the allure. Instead of touring the inside, visitors can stroll the expansive grounds or sit and enjoy the scenery. Want to get the best view? Rent a paddleboat and set out to explore the dream-like lake. Little islands anchor trees that hang over the water creating enchanting tunnels of foliage – perfect for escaping the hot sun or a misting rain. The lake has a calming sense about it, leaving the boater with only the splashing sounds of paddling as they watch the ripples lap at the castle steps. Worked up an appetite yet? Visit the kiosk near the entrance to the grounds for authentic German snacks and enjoy them on a blanket underneath the verdant trees.

Monrepos Castle begs to be seen as it competes with the regal Residence Castle nearby but its undisturbed character gives it its charm. Whether looking for a fresh, lesser-known place to photograph or simply needing a quiet spot to reflect and chat with the ducks, this modest palace will captivate and satisfy.

Release of third book trailer!

2007-06-15T15:56:00.000-07:00

The EFTS summer book trailer has been released! See it on You Tube at:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVBgzpHyFkE

Pompeii: A City of Death Lives On

2007-06-15T08:58:00.000-07:00

Amid the hardened ash and pumice of a two-thousand year old disaster lies a city so perfectly preserved, it sparks the imagination of even the most indifferent visitor. Pompeii has become more of a living museum than an excavation site since its discovery in the 1700s. Millions flock to the ancient Italian city to explore this pristine time capsule that has taken over 250 years to be slowly and delicately uncovered.

It takes at least one full day to be able to truly take in all of Pompeii’s many intricate discoveries. Walk the stone streets where only the wind and birds now reside, wondering how much more of the town’s secrets await resurrection. Take in the magnificent beauty of elaborate mosaics and colorful frescoes that have weathered such utter circumstances. Marvel at the citizens’ names that will live on forever in the clinging paint on their homes. Imagine the marble splendor of the mighty Temple of Apollo and the other religious icons of the day. Ponder what it would have been like to live in this flourishing city that was at its zenith when Vesuvius began to grumble its ominous warning.

The excavation of Pompeii has been nothing short of astonishing. Such care has been taken since the beginning of its unearthing that we are able to see a clear snapshot of the city on its last fateful day in AD 79. Simple terra cotta containers for oil and wine, giant millstones, iron farm tools, and decorative columns have been protected for 2,000 years in a heavy blanket of ash and serve as witnesses to everyday life. The most shocking is the presence of Vesuvius’ victims. As the digging began, empty cavities were found among the layers of volcanic debris. Archeologists soon realized that each void was actually where a body had long since decomposed. Plaster was poured into the empty spaces to create molds of the bodies, which are chillingly detailed – their writhing agony during a suffocating death, the terror on their faces, even the way their hair was styled that day are frozen forever in the casts. Some were found fleeing for their lives while others were found curled up on floors and beds with their hands covering their faces. One cast depicts a thief with his hand in the purse of a wealthy man who is seemingly unaware of the looting while trying to escape the catastrophe. Another cast portrays a frightened dog fruitlessly fighting against the chain that held him captive. Each plaster mold projects such an intense emotion that visitors are sometimes moved to tears at the profound loss of life that Pompeii exhibits.

Despite its constant reminder of death and destruction, Pompeii proves that life continues to overcome obstacles as the vines and blossoms thrive among the silent ruins. A sleeping Vesuvius remains as a visual remembrance that life is precious and the unexpected could happen at any moment.

Traveling with a Child’s Perspective

2007-06-15T08:56:00.001-07:00

Within a few short months of giving birth to our first child, my husband got word that the Army, in all of its wisdom, decided that moving us to the other side of the world was a good idea. This meant leaving behind everything familiar – family, friends, schools, church, our favorite Kansas City barbeque restaurant – and adapting to a new country, a new culture, and a new language.

My husband was thrilled as he’d always wanted to visit to Germany. Me? The word ‘livid’ comes to mind. I’d never traveled much, didn’t have much of an interest to leave my perfectly good home and strand myself somewhere new, but at this point I didn’t have a choice. We packed up every single worldly possession we owned, said our goodbyes to family and friends, and had our last sweet taste of that barbeque before heading out – my husband, me, and our then 9-month-old son. What I didn’t know at the time was that this would be the first of many trips we’d be taking.

It took a little while to adjust to our new life but Europe offered too many fascinating sites for my reluctant demeanor to resist. We traveled mostly on the weekends to sites in the area due to my husband’s work schedule but every now and then, my husband was able to take leave and off we’d go to someplace new. I had transformed from unwilling traveler to globetrotter and I wanted to ensure that our son really appreciated our various overseas trips, something his peers back in the states would probably never have the opportunity to experience.

We ended up staying in Germany for a total of seven years – four years more than originally planned – and I’ve come to realize that my son came away from those family trips with a much different takeaway than I did. Granted, that was to be expected during the first years. We visited the Louve in Paris when he was two-and-a-half and while I was commenting on the talent it took to carve the marble warrior figures depicting a gruesome battle scene, my son was overly concerned with their ‘ow-ies’. As he grew older, though, his appreciation for these priceless sites continued to be on a level very different from my own. One unseasonably warm February morning, we found ourselves standing in front of Michelangelo’s David in Florence. For me, David was absolutely profound. The brilliant Italian sculptor missed no detail as he carved this larger-than-life man - the bones in the hands, the contours of each muscle, the eyes with their thoughtful gaze - even the cold marble itself looks like soft, white skin. I stood in front of him deep in thought, feeling small and humbled in his towering presence. My curious son, unable to contain his question any longer, loudly whispered, “Mommy, why is David naked?” Knowing my son’s own fondness for that natural look, I simply replied, “do you know how you don’t like getting dressed? Well, David’s just having a ‘naked day’.” He took a couple seconds to process this reason, which seemed perfectly normal to him, and answered with an ‘oh, ok’ then looked back up at David with a new-found sense of understanding and commonality. As we walked around to view him from the back, I pointed out various intricacies to my son. I wanted him to see what I saw in this statue – perfection. My son responded as honestly as he could, loudly whispering in such a way that although he was talking to me, everyone around us could hear him, “mama, that’s a big booty.” What’s a mother to do? I’m trying to add a bit of culture into my preschooler’s life and his takeaways from David are that he’s having a ‘naked day’ and he’s got a big booty! Even years later at his current age of seven, I know he remembers going to these famous sites. When I asked him about the Tower of Pisa recently, he said, “yes! That’s where you bought me the Hulk candy and they had all those stands of junky toys!”

We’ve since moved back to the states and I enjoy reflecting on those precious seven years worth of travels that the Army blessed us with – 45 countries worth of trips, 364 weekends worth of family fun, and countless unique commentaries of the sites from my son. As I recall the places I’ve seen – breathtaking world heritage sites, museums full of priceless works of art, ancient castles that still stand strong, soaring cathedrals that take your breath away, or ruined cities that echo with its lost souls - it’s not my mature, educated appreciation that comes to mind. It’s the purity of my child’s perspective – his angelic view that breathes a fresh look into even the oldest of travel destinations. I will always appreciate the artistic technique of Michelangelo’s David, but I love him for being able to relate to my son’s aversion to clothing…and for having a big booty.

The Blue Lagoon: A Perfect ‘Long Layover’ Between the US and Europe

2007-05-21T07:23:00.000-07:00

How often do you find a place where the water’s color is more intense than the sky’s? In the chilly island country of Iceland, the steamy Blue Lagoon is an oasis of heat. This little nation is quickly becoming a popular travel destination as it sits conveniently between the United States and Europe. With the absolutely highest regard for the environment, this beautiful location offers the busy tourist rest, relaxation, and rejuvenation.

Heated by geothermal energy, the cloudy blue waters feel almost scalding at times and are chock-full of healthy minerals. Troughs of soft white silica mud sit warm in the water for visitors to slather on – all while enjoying the balmy sunbeams and the crystal clear sky. The entire area is blanketed in a fluffy cloud of steam which rises from the water, making the crisp Icelandic air less of a temperature shock. The spa also houses a sauna and steam room, areas for massage, and even a treatment center for skin ailments like psoriasis.

What makes Iceland and the Blue Lagoon even more of an attraction for tourists is that it is the perfect ‘long layover’ point between the United States and Europe. The long, crowded, and almost claustrophobic flight between the two continents can be almost unbearable. Traveling itself becomes a source of stress and frustration, which isn’t how anyone wants to start a vacation! So why not break up the flight? The Keflavík International Airport is about a five-and-a-half-hour flight from the U.S.’s east coast, which will get you a little over halfway to Europe. From the airport, simply check your baggage, hop a shuttle to the Blue Lagoon, and soak your cares (and jetlag) away for a few hours before returning the airport to finish your flight. The resort offers swimsuit and towel rentals, making it easier to visit without dragging along cumbersome bags. Visitors can even take a piece of their experience with them as the lagoon offers a complete line of face and body products made from its healing waters, silica mud, and special algae. Imagine how refreshing it would be to board an airplane feeling clean, rejuvenated, and with the knowledge that Europe is only a few more hours away.

Whether Iceland is the final destination or merely a stop along the way, The Blue Lagoon is truly a unique and relaxing experience!

Ready to go? Here are some resources to check out:

* www.bluelagoon.com – (English version). Official site for the Blue Lagoon. Get info on opening times, prices, contact info for booking massages and treatments (Don’t wait until you get there to book!). You can also shop their spa products – I can vouch for almost all of them, they are fabulous (my favorite is the Mineral Balance Foam Bath – the scent is intoxicating!).

* www.icelandair.com – airline tickets, travel packages, info on getting to the Blue Lagoon and back. I actually got my Iceland Air tickets through cheaptickets.com (which saved me about $200) and then called Iceland Airlines to set up lagoon and hotel transportation (even if you get the tickets from another source, you can still go thru them for additional packages). Iceland Air also has INCREDIBLE customer service – I’ve visited 45 different countries via all sorts of means and Iceland Air surpasses every company I’ve traveled with.

* www.icelandnaturally.com – great tourist info site! Whether you’re only visiting the Blue Lagoon or staying longer, visit this website and order a 6 minute DVD and plenty of brochure information (it’s all free!).

Alpirsbach Monastery: Medieval Sandstone Island

2007-04-29T16:49:00.000-07:00

Nestled in the Northern Black Forest, Alpirsbach Monastery echoes with the souls that once worshipped within its walls. While clinging to a forgotten time with a white-knuckled grip, the monastery boasts a 900-year history beautifully kept intact while the world outside changed and modernized.

Founded in 1095, the Benedictine monastery easily humbles the proud and quiets the boisterous. Upon entering its doors with the massive brass lion doorknockers, it’s evident that this is a sanctuary of sanctuaries. The red sandstone beams warm tones during the day and leaps to an almost blinding glow as the sun begins to set. Sandstone bricks lay in a herringbone pattern in the church, making this hall of worship anything but plain. High, medieval ceilings and colorful stained glass above the simple alter add to the ambience of respect and subservience.

As with many monasteries, Alpirsbach has magnificent cloisters which lead out to a square courtyard. Cloisters give a sense of openness to the closed-off building as the outer façade has no glass. Now, ivy twists and turns through the intricately carved stone windows, bringing life to the empty reverberations in the hallways. All kinds of weather intrude from the courtyard, bringing the outside in – whether sunshine, rain, or snow.

Alpirsbach is famous for its beer. Look for the stone statue of the little monk – his protruding belly bears witness that he’s had a few too many. He stands near the entrance of the beer museum, which walks visitors through the history of its brewing. Beer was important to everyday life; not only did it provide a source of income for the monastery but it was considered ‘purified water’. During this time, water was considered to be a carrier of disease. Europeans believed that the alcohol in beer and wine killed whatever was in the water that made people sick so it was important to consume some regularly. ‘A pint a day keeps the pneumonia away…’

Monasteries such as Alpirsbach are a joy to visit because they aren’t overflowing with tourists. Instead, you can wander to your heart’s content as the only living soul while listening to the deafening silence. Rub your hands on the cool stone walls and pillars, which have been worn smooth over the last almost-1000 years. Just as this hallowed place once sheltered monks from the outside world, it continues to provide an escape from the overcrowded attractions. Peaceful, hushed, and reverent.

Nove, Italy – Yes, more pottery!

2007-04-22T18:19:00.000-07:00

By now, you’ve probably guessed I have a little addiction for pottery. I’ve taken you through Deruta, Italy and to Boleslawiec, Poland (if you missed these articles, check out my blog’s archive!) Now, on to Nove!

The little Italian town of Nove overflows with a love for beautiful pottery and the talent to deliver. Although not as fancy (or as pricey) as Deruta, Nove’s wares beam with sunshine and seem to embody the exuberant spirit of the country and her people.

Simply drive through the town and stumble on shop after shop after shop! From delicate porcelain to splashy decorative pieces and earthy country items, the town seems to have a little something for every taste. Artists are happy to show their talent as they put their soul into each and every brush stroke. Some will even offer to personalize their work for you, making a simple purchase into a future family heirloom.

Nove is famous for its ‘Chicken Pitcher’. Back in the Renaissance days, the Medicis were the wealthiest and most powerful family in Italy. In addition to the vast amount of land, the family were also immense patrons of the arts – many timeless musicians and artists owe their fame to a Medici. Giuliano Medici was a bit of a party animal and was known to throw a bash at the drop of a hat. The Pazzis (a rival family) played on this trait and had an internal contact suggest to Giuliano that a party be held in the little village of Gallina. He’d never had a party there before and that, in and of itself, was a good enough reason so plans commenced. The Pazzis planned on attacking Giuliano in the middle of the night as he slept off the copious amounts of wine he’d ingested earlier. The attackers snuck into Gallina and had to cross a yard to get to the sleeping Medici. Fortunately for him, the yard happened to be full of chickens which began cackling in a flurry of excitement when the intruders entered. The guards were awakened by the commotion and caught the would-be assassins before they could get to Giuliano. Of course, this was cause for another party and Giuliano commissioned ceramic wine pitchers to be made in the likeness of the chickens for their lifesaving warning.

Here are my favorite shops (I recommend calling prior to your visit to get their opening times):

* Ceramich D’Arte San Marco
Via Martini 46
36055 Nove
(+39)0424-590003

* Caramica Stefani
Via Dell Umo 24/26
36055 Nove
(+39)0424-829021

* Caramiche Artistiche Ancora
Via Martini 26/28
36055 Nove
(+39)0424-5900023

* La Ceramica VBC
Via Molini 45
36005 Nove
(+39)0424-590026

* Ceramiche Artistiche Marco Pizzato
Via Molini 67
36055 Nove
(+39)0424-590082

And some helpful websites:

www.uso.com – the USO goes to Nove regularly so if you aren’t ready to go it alone (and you are affiliated with the US military), sign up for a tour.

http://www.hotelvictoriavicenza.com/ – good and inexpensive hotel in Vicenza (very close to Nove)

Rothenburg ob der Tauber: Medieval Charm in Modern Day

2007-04-15T15:56:00.000-07:00

Uneven cobblestone streets, short, squatty doorways, aged half-timbered houses, and all contained within an imposingly thick wall of stone – you’ve just entered Rothenburg ob der Tauber. One of Germany’s most visited cities, Rothenburg oozes with medieval charm. And why shouldn’t it? Its history dates back as far as 970 A.D and the walls have seen their share of time.

Overlooking the Tauber River valley, Rothenburg has survived centuries of war and natural disasters with the help of generous contributions from all over the world. This is not surprising as the fascinating little town transports the visitor to another time with one step inside its gates. The antiquated buildings stand as witness to how life used to be – small societies where everyone’s life cannot help but be intermingled with everyone else’s…which isn’t hard to imagine when the buildings are joined one to another. The town’s folklore is passed down from generation to generation and recounted for the millions of tourists that drink in (pun intended, as you’ll read in a moment) these sometimes unbelievable tales. The most well-known legend is that of Lord Mayor Nusch. Rothenburg suffered occupation during the Thirty Years War despite heavy resistance from its citizens. In an act of jest, the occupying General announced that the city could be saved from destruction if someone from Rothenburg could drink a tankard of West German wine in one gulp (that’s a whopping 3.25 liters!). Lord Nusch stepped up and put his drinking skills (and liver, no doubt) to the test – and saved the town. As a tribute, the City Councillors’ Tavern houses mechanical figures that act out the story at 11am, 12pm, 1pm, 2pm, and 9pm each day. Crowds gather in the courtyard to watch a motorized Nusch guzzle his town’s salvation while the surprised General looks on.

Another alluring sight at Rothenburg is in St. Jakob’s Church. Constructed in a high gothic style, its towering, arched ceilings quickly make the visitor feel small and insignificant – a perfect state for worship. The two mismatching steeples hold an ungodly story of their own. Supposedly, two different men designed them – the master took on the south steeple and his apprentice took the north one. When construction was completed, the apprentice has erected a more slender and striking tower. Consumed by his anger and jealousy, the master committed suicide by throwing himself off of the top of his own steeple. Despite the high ceilings and deadly towers, the attraction to St. Jakob’s for many is its shrine. Legend has it that three drops of Christ’s blood were caught in a rock crystal, which is now at the center of the ornately carved Altar of the Holy Blood.

Rothenburg is quaint, picturesque, and worthy of any jigsaw puzzle – even more so in the wintertime. Despite the harsh weather and freezing temperatures, many brave the elements to catch a glimpse of this adorable little town with a blanket of snow. The lights glow from their icy coverings and everything is decorated to the hilt for the Christmas season. Germany is famous for its ‘Weihnachtsmarkt’ (Christmas Markets) and Rothenburg rivals them all. In addition to the normal hot sausage, roasted chestnuts, and spiced wine, Rothenburg’s market offers a myriad of medieval-inspired crafts and trinkets which perfectly reflect the town’s personality.

Abounding in charm and charisma, Rothenburg ob der Tauber promises a delightfully medieval vacation from the modern world at any time of year.

Solitude Palace - Stuttgart's Silent Pleasure

2007-04-13T14:26:00.000-07:00

On the outskirts of Stuttgart lies an ironic little palace. Designed for Duke Carl Eugen, Solitude Palace is a wonderful display of showy Baroque architecture yet its location, its purpose, and even its name suggest a more reclusive nature. Nicknamed ‘The Pleasure Palace’, Solitude is a wonderful hidden treasure.

Duke Carl Eugen ruled from nearby Ludwigsburg Castle in the 16^th century. Meant as a quiet retreat from the pressures of politics, the castle’s construction began in 1764 and only took about five years to complete. During its heyday, the grounds were quite expansive – unattached wings of the palace, pavilions, meticulously manicured flower gardens, a shrub labyrinth, theater, orangery garden, stables and much more – anything to keep the duke’s mind off of everyday life. Today, only the palace itself remains but it’s a breathtaking site regardless. Since the building sits atop a hill and overlooks the Wuerttemberg lowlands, the only backdrop is the brilliant blue sky. Paired with its delicate eggshell exterior, the castle and sky contrast perfectly. A broad, elegant double staircase leads up to the central and largest room, White Hall. With high ceilings and a substantial oval shape, this room was meant for parties.

The castle only has a total of ten rooms, including White Hall. Each has its own special personality and drips of intricate ornamentation, breathtaking artwork, and exotic inlay wood designs worthy of only the finest Baroque building. The Red Cabinet once held 34 different oil paintings of Italy, giving it a Mediterranean feel. The Music Room was full of mirrors to reflect the little bit of natural light that made it into the one exterior wall’s windows. The Assembly Room is an odd square shape and colored a stately bright blue. The Anteroom is decorated in cool, relaxing green hues, boasts a French floor plan, and was a sort of waiting room/passage room to the living rooms in the palace. Next, the Marble Hall offered an extreme contrast to the Anteroom with its warm, wood inlay details and the fake marble (fake marble cost more at that time so having the fake stuff was better than having the real thing – it showed you were truly wealthy.) The Palm Room is stunning. Decorated with palm branch and flower accents and having an abundance of windows to let in the sunshine, the Palm Room is a touch of nature amid the flamboyant Baroque style. The Bedroom, which supposedly was never used by the duke as he preferred a more simple room in one of the unattached wings, was more of a statement and used for ceremonies. The miniature Writing Chamber was located next to the bedroom and held telescopes, trophies, and measuring equipment. Finally, the bean-shaped library was just large enough to house some books and a cozy place to sit and enjoy them.

Solitude Palace also has an air of secrecy. A patron of the arts, Duke Carl Eugen also had the reputation for being a ladies man (it is rumored that he had over 100 illegitimate children). The palace sits due south of the Ludwigsburg Palace with a straight 13 kilometer road that connects the two. Many a tour guide has pointed out that Carl could have seen his wife coming from Ludwigsburg a great distance off, giving him ample time to send his current mistress out the back door unseen.

Despite its small size and seemingly unsociable character, Solitude Palace is both impressive and majestically friendly. Together with an unsurpassed view of the surrounding area, the little castle has the best seat in the area and continues to pleasantly surprise those that stumble upon its isolated location.

Neuschwanstein: Germany's Most Recognized Castle

2007-03-26T18:00:00.000-07:00

Creative geniuses are seldom appreciated during their lifetime, as was ‘Mad’ King Ludwig of Bavaria. Now, his famous castle enchants the millions of tourists who visit her gates. Neuschwanstein, Ludwig’s most well-known realized dream, was never completely finished before the king was untimely carted off and labeled as ‘incompetent to rule’. Even today, the circumstances around his death are still highly questionable, giving the castle a mysterious air of deception and betrayal.

With visions of grandiose operas dancing around in his poetic imagination, Ludwig II began the construction of Neuschwanstein in 1869 where two smaller castles laid in ruins. He moved into the unfinished palace 15 years later. Truly a man born out of time, Ludwig’s new castle was to be his world of an era long past. His obsession with composer Richard Wagner and the Middle Ages fueled his creativity as he decorated the rooms - dazzling royal blue and reflective metallics, starry nights painted on the ceiling of his bedroom where the stars really twinkled, knights, the Holy Grail, corridors made to look like they had been carved out of the stark rock face of the mountainside, an indoor winter garden that could be enjoyed at any time of the year, and swan accents at every imaginable spot. Ludwig had hoped to enjoy Wagner’s work in the castle’s ‘Singer’s Hall’, modeled after the Banquet Hall at Wartburg Castle. Sadly, not a single note of the composer’s music would reverberate off of these intricately detailed walls until after the king’s death.

Originally called ‘New Hohenschwangau Castle’, the name was changed to ‘Neuschwanstein’ (New Swan Stone) after Ludwig passed. Many tourists know it as ‘The Cinderella Castle’ as Walt Disney used the spires as the inspiration for his storybook palace. From here, visitors can gaze down over Hohenschwangau Castle, Lugwig’s boyhood home where he spent his days fantasizing about the fairytale-come-to-life he’d one day build on the jutting cliff in the clouds. The Marienbrucke (Mary’s Bridge) is also a stunning site from the arched windows of Neuschwanstein. The brave can hike to the bridge where they are rewarded with a breathtaking view of this world-famous castle. Walk the dizzying span over the deep gorge while the chilly wind burns your cheeks as you wonder ‘how many camera-toting tourist *can* this bridge hold?’

Tragically, the shy ruler only lived in this exquisite dream for about 120 days before he was ousted as king and committed for his supposed mental illness. Since then, rumors have woven colorful stories of every imaginable scenario for his removal. From government conspiracy, being drugged to fake his mental state, double murder or murder suicide and even speculation on his sexual orientation, Neuschwanstein literally oozes with secrets and her walls maintain their silence. Perhaps part of the castle’s magical air is taken from these ‘what ifs’ that we may never know the answer to…or that by stepping inside these halls is the only way to truly appreciate Ludwig’s eccentric soul.

The Wieskirche: Rococo Gem in the Middle of a Field

2007-03-16T18:09:00.000-07:00

Where can you go to see one of the most beautiful examples of rococo architecture in Germany? An open field, of course! This answer may surprise you when considering it’s a place where millions have made a pilgrimage journey to pay homage to the resident icon. Yet once you see it for yourself, you’ll see how ironically perfect it is for such a proud and ornate structure to stand alone in a humble pasture.

Situated near the Bavarian town of Steingaden, the Wieskirche (also called Church of the Field) exists to house the ‘Scourged Savior’. The wooden statue, due to its deplorable façade, was put into storage at a nearby monastery in 1735 then moved to a local couple’s farmhouse three years later. Within months, the couple professed to see tears from the eyes of the icon. The news of this miracle spread quickly and before long, the couple became inundated with worshippers. A small chapel was constructed in 1739 but it proved to be inadequate for the multitudes making their way to pray to the Scourged Savior. In 1745, Dominikus Zimmermann took on the daunting task of creating a sanctuary worthy of a miraculous sculpture – and the results are breathtaking.

A long, reflective road leads to the field of the Wieskirche, where even the Alps in the background stand in reverence. From the outside, it looks like a typical Bavarian church – quaint, picturesque, and worthy of any jigsaw puzzle. But just as a book should not be judged by its cover, so should a Bavarian church not be judged by its location or exterior. That point is proven with only one step inside its sanctuary as the scenery goes from serene to practically ostentatious. Large glass windows intensify the sunbeams and hurl them into the crisp, white hall dripping with gold accents. Lift your eyes upwards where the trompe-l’oeil gives the illusion of seeing into heaven. Awe-inspiring and absolutely faultless, the busy frescoes are full of clouds, angels, and other heavenly figures surrounding Christ perched atop a rainbow. Although the ceiling itself is worth the visit, the centerpiece of the church is still the aged wooden statue, appropriately placed in the middle of the alter. Whether or not you believe the story of the miracle tears, the icon remains a beautiful work of art and the very reason why this church stands today.

Travelers have several options when planning a visit to the Wieskirche. The church hold Catholic services as well as music concerts so those in attendance can enjoy these events in the most spectacular of surroundings. During the remainder of the times, visitors can either wander the sanctuary on their own or take a tour to fully appreciate the church’s nuances. Whatever the inclination, the Wieskirche is sure to enchant and inspire.

Website temporarily down!

2007-03-12T19:07:00.000-07:00

My websites (www.EuropeForTheSenses.com and www.efts.info) are temporarily down while we switch host companies - but it should be up and running soon! Sorry for the inconvenience!

Endless Fields of Color – It’s Spring at the Keukenhof Gardens

2007-03-09T20:18:00.000-08:00

As the harsh morning frost slowly looses its fury, Dutch botanists nurture their countless tulip bulbs in preparation for the warming spring sun. The provinces of Holland in The Netherlands are bustling to prepare for the thousands of tourists from all parts of the globe that will descend upon the little European country for a glimpse at the most beautiful of gardens – the Keukenhof.

Planted near the town of Lisse, the Keukenhof Gardens literally explode with color for only two months out of the year. As each tulip and spring flower greedily strains upward for the sunbeams, visitors snap pictures and purchase bulbs and seedlings, hoping to plant their own stunning gardens. Clever genetic engineers have managed to subvert Mother Nature’s aversion to natural red tulips by cross-breeding, although this blunt disrespect is only tolerated for a few generations and the cross-breeding must again be repeated. Crouch down for a closer look to experience a bug’s view of these natural masterpieces. Rather have a bird’s eye view? What better place to gaze out over endless fields of color than from a perch on an old wooden windmill? After all, no Dutch garden would be complete without one! From here, the rows of tulips go on in every hue imaginable and as far as the eye can see. The gardens are just fields, though. Tip-toe down a tulip-lined path that weaves in and out of the shading trees. Listen to the soft trickling of the fountains as you relax next to a tranquil lake. Admire the intricate designs created by planting just the right type and color of flower in the perfect spots. For children that don’t quite understand the intoxicating and breathtaking effect of the gardens, the small playground will be their highlight. Whether you’ve got a green thumb or only wish that you did, the Keukenhof astounds.

The highlight of tulip season is the Flower Parade, occurring in mid-April every year. Creatively decorated floats and luxury cars crammed with as many blooms as humanly possible slowly make their way along the 40 kilometer trek while onlookers ‘ooh’ and ‘ahh’ over their designs. It takes almost 12 hours for the entire parade to get from Noordwijk to Haarlem, which is even more amazing when considering that multiple marching bands accent the long line of floats and cars.

By mid-May, the blooms have begun to lose their luster. The Keukenhof looks towards the remaining 10 months of the year for preservation, maintenance, and replanting for the next thousands of tourists who will come the following March. Their gentle care of the delicate bulbs and attention to the tiniest of details promise another season of brilliant color and enchanted garden guests.

Polish Pottery

2007-02-23T16:31:00.000-08:00

“I’m too young to be collecting dishes!” Yes, these famous last words came out of my mouth shortly after moving to Germany. I’d see the stuff everywhere – decorating the walls at a friend’s house, overflowing with food at a potluck gathering, or being sold by at a booth outside the post store. And don’t forget each and every shopping bazaar – the table surrounded by a frenzy of ladies was sure to have a well-stocked selection.

I resisted its tempting allure for the first couple of years and believe it or not, my husband caved first. We were at a bazaar and I was engrossed in a pile of carved wooden boxes as my husband explored the pottery table nearby. Then, he uttered those nine little words that he’s probably regretted ever since, “what do you think about buying some Polish Pottery?” It was all over. We went home with five different pieces that afternoon but it was just the beginning - countless patterns, every color imaginable, and plenty of shapes and sizes – it turned out that not only was I not too young, I needed it all.

I took my first Polish Pottery shopping trip a few months later with the USO – you know, the one that you spend an insane 30 hours in a state of pottery-induced, it-doesn’t-matter-how-much-I-spend euphoria. Everyone loads on a big touring bus at 9pm on a Friday night and at around 4:30am, the shopping madness begins. Shop owners know when the buses arrive so they pull themselves out of bed early to make that extra money. Each shop is a race – not only against your new friends on your bus but against that next tour bus you HAVE to stay in front of. Dinner plates, dessert plates, coffee cups and saucers, serving dishes, baking dishes, tea sets, salt and pepper shakers – anything you need for the kitchen or dining room. Recently, I’ve seen pottery items that you can use outside the kitchen such as wall decorations, planters, and some rude ones I won’t mention… Some people have their one, beloved pattern while others, such as myself, mix and match for an eclectic look (they are also easier to replace if, heaven forbid, something breaks). Stop only for a short lunch of goulash to keep your energy level up and keep going.

The trip is also a learning experience, not just a chance to lose control. When looking at the pottery, try and purchase only ‘category 1’ items. The category indicates level of flaws so the higher the better. Category 1 pottery is oven safe for up to 425 degrees F and dishwasher safe (although I don’t trust the dishwasher…I don’t even trust my husband to hand wash it…if you saw my collection of crystal glasses, you’d understand). Category 2 is oven safe for up to 325 degrees F and ‘probably’ dishwasher safe. Category 3 and higher should only be used for serving. Also, if you find the label ‘unikat’ on the bottom, the pattern is original to the store you purchased it from. The best brand to purchase is the one that has the little castle inside the pitcher. Honestly, I never learned the name, just the trademark symbol. Finally, the Golden Rule of Polish Pottery Shopping in Poland is: if you find a piece/pattern you like, purchase it there! You probably won’t be able to find the exact same piece anywhere else so if you can stand the idea of potentially losing a couple dollars vs. getting that special piece, do it!

At about 5pm, it’s time to head back. The bus is crammed, the luggage spaces underneath the bus are as full as they can be, and every bump in the road produces a worried ‘gasp’ from the exhausted shoppers. The Stuttgart USO automatically gives everyone two seats and by this time, you are saying a silent blessing for that ingenious perk. You get back to post around the wee hours of 3am and barely have the energy to conjure up that little white lie to your spouse on how much you *actually* spent. Your body is screaming with a mixture of exhaustion and cramps from the bus but it was worth it! Especially when you move back to the states - watch QVC and you’ll see what I mean. The other day, those silly, smiling ladies were selling one little dessert plate for $42!

On a final note, I recommend going with a group to Poland as opposed to just you and the family. Bus trips, although tight and you have to concede to the groups schedule, it’s better than getting your car stolen (which happens quite a bit – and how easy do you think it will be to track it in a former Eastern Block country??). I’ve heard so many of these car jacking stories – one woman brought her husband along to watch the car…he did – watched it get driven right out of the parking lot. I had a friend tell me that she’ll only drive her car to Poland if her husband goes AND he drives the car in circles in the parking lot while she shops. I’ve also seen small groups, whether friends or organized by a resourceful military spouse, hire a chartered bus and driver. Each pitches in for a portion of the bill so not only are they leaving the driving to someone else, they are buying themselves peace of mind. Have fun and remember, you are contributing to the Polish economy!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Ready to go??

www.uso.com – Those affiliated with the military have this resource. Check your local USO’s page for a schedule of tours.

www.enjoytours.com – this company does plenty of trips to great destinations, but they don’t have that ‘2-seats-per-person’ policy that the USO does.

Four shops in the area of Boleslawiec, Poland and American-friendly (there’s PLENTY more but these are the ones I’ve been to before):
~ Pol Card
Karty Platnicze w Polsce
Pawie Oczko sklep Firmony
Ul. Masarska 1, 59-700
Boleslawiec

~ Ceramika Art Wiklina
“Cerwik” K. Roznicki, A. Mazur
59-731 Zebrzydowa
Zebrzydowa 62

~ Kufel Sklep II
Ul II Armii Wojska Polskiego
59-700

~ Makaba
Boleslawiec

Travel Resources

2007-02-15T16:50:00.000-08:00

Over the last couple of months, I’ve been able to do some magazine, online, and radio interviews and each one has sparked a flow of wonderful emails from people asking how I got into traveling. So this week, I want to share some of my resources that I use almost every time I start planning a trip – short or extended.

Like I say in most of my interviews, I was hesitant about traveling at first. New country, new culture, new language – it’s scary to get out there at first! I’m actually experiencing that right now as I adjust to South Carolina (the accent feels like a different language sometimes and I’m fighting to keep the word “ya’ll” out of my vocabulary :) Some people can get out there and just drive around and find places…I can’t (that, and I don’t want to waste that expensive stuff I have to pump into my car every couple of days). Shortly after we moved overseas, my in-laws sent me my first Rick Steves book. Seven years later, the pages are dog-eared and there’s a bit of sticky gelato on the spine but it’s still a fantastic book. Steves has been a European traveler for decades and despite those khaki shorts (which can be downright goofy sometimes), the man is a travel genius. Honestly, I don’t start planning a major trip without looking up what he’s written on the destination already. Why recreate the wheel when Steves has already done so – the wheel, the cart, the horse, AND the little guy that sits up front and yells, “let’s go!” I’ve got several of his books (and I’m actually waiting for a new one, too – his office is sending me one for talking on his radio show) and every single one of them have been worth what I paid.

Another book I use just as religiously as Steves’ collection when I stay within Germany is called “Time to Travel, Travel in Time: to Germany’s finest stately homes, gardens, castles, abbeys and Roman remains”. This one’s probably my all-time favorite because it includes not only information on each destination, such as a brief history, opening times, and admission costs, the photography is absolutely stunning. Large, full color pages prevent even the most reluctant traveler from exclaiming, “there’s nothing to do here” :) It’s published in Germany and sold at many of the castles featured in the book; I was able to locate and purchase it online (ISBN: 3-7954-1411-3, published by Schnell & Steiner, 2001). There’s a companion book also published by Schnell & Steiner that you can use if you are into gardens and parks, “Pleasure Gardens, Garden Pleasures: Germany’s most beautiful historical gardens” (ISBN: 3-7954-1536-5, published in 2003). Like “Time to Travel”, it includes text, great information, and gorgeous full-color pictures of each destination. I used the books together as my husband was completely and utterly burned out on castles but he still found the gardens enjoyable. Just flipping through these books makes me ache to go back!

If you are at a military base, the USO is a great tool. I’ve taken a few of their tours myself but I’m not a big fan of getting up at 3am to sit on a crowded bus. Most of the time, I’d use the USO for ideas. You can get a basic itinerary for one of their trips and then plan your own trip around that, tailoring to your individual interests and pace. I had a friend who would actually follow the USO bus in his car so he wouldn’t have to pay :) I don’t want to discourage taking a USO trip, though – they can be a lot of fun and I’ve always made new friends (even on the most uncomfortable of rides) – so please don’t write them off! In addition to tours, the USO always has tons of free information on a myriad of places in Europe.

I also use plenty of budget travel options! If my destination is close enough to drive (in my mind, that’s under five hours), I throw my bags in the car and go! Anything with a driving time over five hours requires alternate transportation (I don’t like spending a majority of my time off behind the wheel). Germany’s got a fantastic train system and on the weekends, they offer a ‘Schoenes Wochenende’ ticket. For about 30 euros, you have the weekend to train as much as you want (within the confines of the state you are in, see their website for details on this and other offers at www.dbahn.de and click on ‘International Guests’ for English). Although not as reliable as the German system, Italian trains offer the comfort of leaving the driving to someone else – www.trenitalia.com (the ‘English’ button is in the top right corner).

Too far to drive or train? Flying within Europe can be incredibly cheap! I love using German Wings (www.germanwings.com), HLX (www.hlx.de), and Ryan Air (www.ryanair.com). I’ve flown from Stuttgart to Pisa and return for only 30 euros! Check daily as they run 24 hour specials where one-way flights are as low as 19 cents. Watch baggage weight limits, though!

Need an inexpensive hotel? I check Rick Steves books for recommendations and then search them on www.hrs.de (click ‘English). I’ve done a TON of internet searches for hotels and for the most part, I’ve found that HRS offers the best deals regardless of the country I’m checking into. Plus, you don’t have to wait to find out if the reservation has been made (plenty of other sites take your credit card and then get back with you in three days to confirm) – when you book, you know you have a reservation and receive a confirmation code immediately. Further, many of the hotels that list with HRS don’t require a credit card to book and you have up to 6pm that day to cancel if you need to.

My last recommendation is one I didn’t discover until close to the end of our time in Germany – GPS! What a truly perfect travel tool! I can’t tell you how much time (over seven years) was wasted trying to find our hotel in the middle of the city or that lonesome monastery in the middle of nowhere. Car-mounted, it will get you to a specific address or to a nearby tourist attraction while handheld devices can remember where your car is parked or walk you to a restaurant. If you don’t own one, it’s simple to rent a car with one already installed. A GPS will alleviate a LOT of stress from traveling (my husband gets incredibly frustrated when we get lost so this one little electronic bundle of joy has avoided plenty of irritation!)

I also love getting travel resources from other people so if you have an idea that works for you during your trip planning, let me know! :)

Schwetzingen Castle: Heidelberg’s Neglected Cousin

2007-02-09T13:00:00.000-08:00

Each year, hundreds and hundreds of tourists flock to the famous Heidelberg Castle for pictures of the exquisite red ruins. Unfortunately, many of those visitors overlook the nearby Schwetzingen Castle and Gardens. Only a few minutes from its more famous cousin, Schwetzingen patiently waits to be enjoyed.

With roots as far back as 1350, Castle Schwetzingen is a delicious example of baroque architecture. Electors, Princes, Counts as well as famous writers, poets, and a seven-year-old Mozart have graced the echoing hallways over its history. Delight in the details as you explore room after room in this exquisite palace - painstaking restoration work has kept this piece of the past in pristine condition. Although the castle is an experience in and of itself, some argue that the gardens hold the real pull for visitors.

Symmetry is supreme, giving a balanced feeling to even a short glance out into the gardens. Meticulous organization harmonically coexists between the lush green life of nature and the stark man-made marble that is heartily sprinkled throughout the gardens. Rows of arched greenery hide the visitor and if for even a moment, give total solitude from the outside world. Pan hides among the living maze, perched atop a large boulder and playing a silent tune for a forest audience. Stop and listen, hoping for a note or two from the lone performer. The Temple of Apollo boasts from a small hill; a few well-angled sunbeams make its fence line full of golden suns glow. Travel to exotic lands by passing the marble lions and perfectly manicured trees which silently guard the pathway to the mosque. Imagine the scent of incense burning while listening to the low lull of a mid-eastern melody. Continue on to discover the Asian bridge and the temple ruins before losing yourself again in the labyrinth of foliage.

Maulbronn Monastery: Echoing the Past

2007-02-03T17:38:00.000-08:00

Maulbronn Monastery humbly hails as the most well-preserved medieval complex of its kind north of the Alps. Situated in a little German village of the same name, this beautiful reminder of the past welcomes visitors to explore its intricacies once cut off from the public’s eye.

Constructed between the 12th and the 14th centuries in Gothic and Romanesque styles, the monastery complex is made up of several quaint half-timbered structures including the staff’s quarters, an infirmary, mill, guardhouse, and stables. Easily the most impressive is the main monastery building which houses the church and living areas for the monks. The diamond vaults of the gothic ceiling lead the eye from the entrance of the church upwards and forward to the alter. High stained glass windows provide an appropriate backdrop for the centered crucifix and hidden choir area. The dark, carved wooden stalls for the singers have stood since the 1400’s and ache for another service. Outside this sanctuary, the arched ceilings of the cloisters seem to run forever as the entering sunlight makes the soft sandstone glow. These hallways quietly echo with the ancient chants of the monks buried underfoot. Only the Fountain House (sometimes called Well House) interrupts the meditating in the passageways – its three-tiered basins provide a quiet, trickling background music. The subtle, yet intricately detailed paintings worked into the ceiling architecture whisper from such areas as the church, Refectory, Chapterhouse, Library, and Locutory. It makes one wonder if the monks looked up to heaven because they were worshipping or simply admiring the handsome artwork above.

Aged and pure, Maulbronn is not widely known to the typical European tourist – making it more attractive to visit. Instead of crowds and lines, the monastery offers an escape from the outside world with one step inside its walled gates. Be the lone soul in the breezy, hollow corridors that bounce a deafening reverberation of your footsteps. Profoundly reflect on the years and the world events that passed by unnoticed to the reverent monks since the monastery’s completion. Throw your arms around an almost-thousand-year-old pillar and press your cheek up against the cold stone. Maulbronn Monastery hangs on to a forgotten time with a white-knuckled grip and is truly a unique experience.

Pisa: Lean on Me

2007-01-10T09:49:00.000-08:00

Why is it that an architect’s blunder is one of the most loved travel destinations in the world? The Leaning Tower of Pisa is one of those oddities that would have probably never become famous without its tilt. Already developing during construction, the tower’s tip continues as does efforts to stop it from becoming dangerous to visitors.

I love the irony in this...here's what I say in my book: “Pisa is a collection of clay-colored roofs being curtly interrupted by a pallid square of marble structures. Contain a smirk when you ponder Pisa’s only claim to fame is an engineering failure; imagine the perplexing mixture of pride and embarrassment for its creator, knowing the world remembers you for this crooked tower too unstable to ring its own bells.”

The tower’s fame overshadows the other residents that share the space in the same piazza: the Cathedral, the Cemetery, and the Baptistery. The Cathedral, containing the whispers of the respectful, quickly humbles the outsider with its dizzying height and dazzling artistry. The Cemetery is an anthology of arched windows, one after another consuming each hallway. Its inhabitants sleep forever underfoot as their markers adorn the walls and floors of the echoing corridors. Finally, the Baptistery silently awaits visitors leaving its slanted neighbor. Although the Leaning Tower steals away most of Pisa’s tourist attention, the Baptistery can hold its own once its talent is recognized and appreciated. The entrance worker performs a three-pitched concert. Listen to a single note sung and how long the sound takes to dissipate in the great span above. Listen again to the same single note followed by a new pitch. Close your eyes and listen to the first, second, and now a third note, sung in a chord; one voice and three echoes filling the reverberating dome with a chilling harmony.

Despite the tacky row of bustling junk shacks along its outskirts the piazza is a peaceful place to explore, especially during the winter months when the tourist traffic is at its lowest. The monuments don’t take very long to visit, leaving time to peruse the neighboring museums or simply enjoy the view from a quiet bench nearby.

Happy New Year!

2007-01-02T17:50:00.000-08:00

Can you believe that it's 2007 already?? I'm still in shock but my entire world's currently a bit upside down right now anyway. We've moved back to the states...and I'm already missing Germany. I can't complain, though - the Army's allowed us to stay overseas for seven years, which is incredibly long for a military tour. I went from 'never traveled' to 'can't get enough', visited a whopping 45 countries throughout Europe and Africa, and published a book. Of course, I don't plan on staying stateside for long...Rob's here for a normal three-year tour but I'm already planning vacations back! :)

So, now's the time of year when everyone's working hard to keep their New Year's resolutions. What's on your list? Normally, I make a list of about 20...with the crazy notion that I can actually keep them all. Stringent things, like "I will practice the piano at least once a week for at least an hour" (I've slacked off since my college days of practicing every night for an hour or two...). No, this year my resolutions amount to only a small handful and are much more flexible (or at least more loosely defined):

* Work out more (see, 'more' would be anything above 'once every couple of months', which is where I am right now)
* Write more (which *should* be easy as I'm waiting for the Army to find me a new job...although being crammed in this one-room hotel room for over two weeks with a 7-year-old with cabin fever and a husband who hasn't had 100 channels of cable in seven years isn't helping...)
* Work on my second book (I'll let you know more about that as it progresses!)

That's it! That's all I'm holding myself to this year. So even though I'm back in the states, I'll still be working on new articles on European travel. If you don't get my weekly newsletter, send me an email at vicki(at)EuropeForTheSenses.com to be added to the distro list!

Have a great 2007!

Prague - Exotic and Charming

2006-12-23T04:44:00.000-08:00

Exotic, mysterious with its Old World charm, and still hiding so many secrets, Prague enchants even the most cynical tourist. Prague’s rich history dates back thousands of years and a simple visit feels like a trip back in time. With nicknames such as ‘The Golden City’ or ‘City of a Hundred Spires’, it promises to be fascinating.

Prague is more than an interesting place to vacation, it is an experience. Make your way across the Charles Bridge, occasionally pausing to watch a street performer or observe a sketch artist at work on a tattered piece of paper. Stare into the somber faces of the stone statues which border the famous bridge, knowing somewhere beneath each distant gaze lies the soul of its carver. Beautiful and sad, they hold their vigil, oblivious of the rushing waters below. Explore the wares of the many crystal shops where the light dances off of each sparkling trinket. Pay your respects to the many residents at the Old Jewish Cemetery. Prague’s greatest Jewish scholar rests here and his grave has become a pilgrimage site for many of his faith. Examine famous ‘timepieces’ – whether the medieval Astronomical Clock mounted on the old city hall building or the modern, out-of-place metronome that tick-tocs its way through the hours where Stalin’s monument once stood. Hike up the steep Golden Lane, weaving in and out of street vendor carts and up to the castle. Take in the skyline view of crowded greenish church steeples, bridges, and an ever-freezing river while the merciless wind sends a chill up your spine. The St. Vitus Cathedral stands as the imposing giant at this hilltop castle, undaunted by the history it has witnessed from its perch above. Rest in a creaky wooden pew and gaze wide-eyed at the radiant rose window, almost exploding with color, before making the trek back down the Golden Lane and into the heart of the bustling city for some hearty goulash.

Even if you’ve never thought of visiting Prague before, you’ve probably sung about one of its favorite patron saints. Prince Wenceslas pursued a better relationship with a neighboring dynasty and was eventually assassinated by those not sharing his diplomatic views. He now sleeps forever at St. Vitus while countless sing ‘Good King Wenceslas’ during the Christmas holiday season.

Ready to visit? Here are a couple of web recommendations:

* www.prague.cz - lots of background information!
* www.hotel-atlantic.cz - very nice 3-star hotel. The staff is friendly and helpful, they've got parking, and it's perfectly located - we walked everywhere from here!
* www.praguemaster.com/george/george.html - if you don't want to take *another* tour with a hundred other people led by a woman holding an umbrella over her head, go with native George Kuklik from Prague Master! George met us at our hotel, gave us a fantastic, customized tour of all the places we were interested in seeing, and even carried Brady when he got tired. Best of all, we had him all to ourselves! We took a few other tours with the 'big' companies while in Prague and George was by far, the very best. Book before you get to Prague to ensure you get him for as many different tours as you want! george@praguemaster.com or +420 / 603 455 067

Stuttgart Restaurants

2006-12-17T07:24:00.000-08:00

I'm down to my last couple of hours in Germany - and let me tell you, it's depressing. We've spent 7 years here getting to know the city, its people, and of course German cuisine. We're hitting our favorite spots 'one last time' and savoring as much as possible because I'm not sure where I'll be able to get maultaschen or a flammkuchen near Ft. Jackson, South Carolina. So, as I say good-bye to my home, let me offer some of my top recommendations on where to eat in the Stuttgart area:

* The Busnauerhof in Busnau (near Patch Barracks) - I got my first taste of German food here so I made sure they were my very last meal in Europe. Detlef is a genius in the kitchen and his wife, Marion, is angelic. I love the entire menu and this is the ONLY place that I will eat tiramisu - it's perfect.

* The Lowen in Vaihingen (next to the Rathaus near the square) - two ladies own this restaurant and it's my favorite place for maultaschen. Rob loves the Cordon Bleu and their Zanderfilet (fish) is famous.

* Coc@inn in Stuttgart (on Schloss Strasse - I take the S Bahn to the Feuersee and walk 3 blocks). This one's an original - a Brit that grew up in South Africa and owns a Mexican restaurant in Germany. The burritos are enormous and if you don't like the vegetarian one, it's free. Great atmosphere, fun food, and guacamole that Rob and I fight over (he hates the stuff).

* Le Rose (on Patch Barracks) - yes, we love Le Rose so much that when we call, they know who it is and what we normally order. I love Italian and this is has been one of our favorites throughout our time here.

* The Brauhaus (in Boeblingen) - this one's been a new find but lots of fun. If you wish it was Oktoberfest time again, visit the Brauhaus. Set up like a fest tent (with the long tables and everything), this is the perfect place to bring a large group of friends. There's even a playground out back for the kids, great for summertime dinners. The only thing missing is the ohm-pa-pa band.

* Tavern Olympus (in Vaihingen on the Hauptstrasse) - The owner bubbles over with personality while the food explodes with flavor. I ADORE the lamb goulash and the tzayziki just by itself is worth going for.

Of course, I've eaten at tons of other places but these stick out in my mind as not only delicious but great atmospheres and wonderful owners. I'll definitely miss visiting them!

I'll be off-line over the next several days as we transition back to the states but we should be up and running again after Christmas! Auf wiedersein to Germany and have a beautiful holiday season!

Germany's Christmas Market

2006-12-07T11:34:00.000-08:00

Although Germany’s frigid weather isn’t appealing to many travelers, its festive Christmas markets rope in holiday-loving tourists every December. Called ‘Weihnachtsmarkt’ in the country’s native tongue, these special bazaars range from spectacular productions in big cities to folksy and intimate occasions in the smaller towns and villages. Regardless of location and size, the markets promise an entertaining time as visitors explore the extent of the grounds.

Mingling aromas of hearty German delicacies, roasting chestnuts, and spiced glühwein fill the chilly air as the streets stay crammed with shoppers looking for the perfect gift. A visit during day lit hours is best for serious shopping but the dark evenings bring out the charm as the markets glow with the warmth of the colorful lights. Vendors offer an array of beautiful gifts for sale which plays in with the market’s theme. For example, many of the older towns can be dated back as far as the Middle Ages and the markets uphold their aged customs. Local craftsman bring their handmade goods of wood, metal, cloth, or glass. Larger cities wanting to please a wide spectrum of the population will offer both the old and more modern wares. In either case, traditional folk songs provide the perfect backdrop to this atmosphere seeping with holiday spirit.

Visiting is easy - simply check your desired destination’s website for dates, times, and venue. Most cities have one hosted at www.(city name).de and information can either be translated directly on the site by clicking ‘English’ or a flag or through the use of an online translation web page. Other information such as parking, public transportation schedules, or special events can also be obtained and planned around for the optimal market experience.

Ready to go? Here are some in and around Stuttgart (thanks, Lisa for the list!):

Ulm/Neu Ulm: 27 Nov - 22 Dec - on the Münsterplatz (A8 towards München)

Esslingen am Neckar: 28 Nov - 22 Dec - This one's a medieval market on the Marktplatz

Ludwigsburg: 28 Nov - 23 Dec - Baroque market on the Marktplatz

Reutlingen: 29 Nov - 22 Dec - around Marienkirche 11a - 8p

Stuttgart: 30 Nov - 23 Dec - on the Marktplatz and Schillerplatz

Schorndorf: 2 Dec - 17 Dec - on the Marktplatz

Bad Urach: 8 Dec - 10 Dec

Felbach: 8 Dec - 19 Dec - market with fairytale forest around Rathaus and Eislaufbahn ice skating

Herrenberg: 8 Dec - 10 Dec - on the historic marktplatz

Sindelfingen: 9 Dec - 10 Dec - on the Marktplatz

Tübingen: 9 Dec - 10 Dec - at the Bebenhausen Monastery from 11am to 6p

Tübingen: 15 Dec - 17 Dec - in historic old city

Schönaich: 16 Dec - 17 Dec - around the Bürgerhaus

Thanksgiving's over...ready for Christmas cooking?

2006-11-27T12:43:00.000-08:00

I am still stuffed from Thanksgiving! The leftovers continue to call me from the fridge and I'm now saving time by drinking the eggnog straight out of the carton (ok, nobody else at my house drinks eggnog). To tell you the truth, I'm excited about cooking at Christmas already. Remember that fabulous Italian cooking school in Tuscany that I keep raving about? The chef, Faye Hess, has just released her very first book! It's called FAYEFOOD and it's going to get me through the Christmas holidays. Just go to www.lulu.com and type FAYEFOOD in the search box. You can even preview it (I love the cover - it's TOTALLY Faye :) She also writes a blog at www.fayefood.com.

If you ask my husband about our first Thanksgiving as a married couple, he will tell you about the pie I made. We were as broke as you could get but we managed to scrape enough money together for turkey sandwiches from Boston Market. In an admirable effort, I made the very first homemade pie I'd ever attempted with flour and cherry pie filling. It even had the criss-crosses on the top. My husband took a bite of that pie and put on the most convincing 'mmmm' face he could - which convinced me until I took a bite. Somehow the pie crust tasted more like playdoh. I gagged and told him to stop eating the playdoh pie and that was that. It wasn't until I met Faye two years ago did I start to enjoy cooking - and now I rule in that kitchen! Bring on Christmas!

Mainau - Germany's Garden Island

2006-11-22T08:52:00.000-08:00

Mainau is Germany's garden island, hording seven kilometers worth of space from the Bodensee. Bursting with radiant color and exotic fragrance, this little oasis on the lake beckons anyone looking for quiet tranquility. Although only royalty live on this isle, all are welcome to visit for the day.

Easily reached from Meersburg, Germany or other ferry ports along the Bodensee (also called Lake Constance), Mainau is a relaxing thrill. Each visit offers beautifully manicured gardens that beg to be leisurely strolled through, the Palm House which protects the tropical trees from the elements while little chirping birds hide in the coarse leaves, every imaginable – and unimaginable - species of roses, and a view of the stately castle that overlooks the grounds. The castle itself cannot be toured but its adjoining chapel is accessible to the public. It's even possible to enjoy live musical performances among the serenely perfect surroundings.

Mainau's one of the highlighted destinations in my book. Here's an excerpt—

“Get lost in the gardens to truly appreciate every single detail waiting patiently to be discovered. Explore the Butterfly House, a simulated paradise for hundreds of silent winged bugs in all stages of life. With its high temperatures, almost stifling humidity, waterfalls, brilliant flowers and exotic plants – step through a curtain of bamboo and you are immediately transported into a rainforest! Study the hanging cocoons where caterpillars await their rebirth or sneak up on a six-inch butterfly feasting on a dish of plump orange slices. Slip behind a waterfall for a cool break from the humidity or rest on a bench and wait for something to land nearby!”

Since it's not possible to stay at Mainau overnight (there are no hotels!), I recommend Meersburg. Meersburg is an adorable old town, complete with medieval castle and lakeside promenade. The old castle is worth the tour but I found that the newer castle to be much less interesting. It's used as a museum for an eclectic collection of modern art (which I’m not really into) but the grand staircase is impressive (I bought a ticket just to see the staircase). The town itself is fascinating just to walk through. Take the 20-30 minute ferry from Meersburg to Mainau and you'll get dropped off at the entrance (those 20-30 minutes can either be spent on deck enjoying the view or inside enjoying a cup of something warm!). Once there, simply purchase your ticket and wander wherever your heart takes you!

Couple misc points of interest:
• This is one of the few places I've been in Germany that's incredibly accommodating to handicapped guests – smooth walkways, gentle slopes, wheelchairs at the entrance, etc.
• There's only one ATM on the entire island – it's in the Gatehouse.
• The sit-down restaurants are insanely expensive. I normally eat at the cafe in the Butterfly House which is much cheaper.
• Playgrounds, petting zoo, and pony rides! This is a fabulous place for kids of all ages. There are also plenty of benches for the parents to collapse within eyeshot.
• There are gorgeous flowers and bulbs at the shops near the entrance. Remember that you can't ship these items back to the states (my husband worked in Customs for six years so I got these rules drilled into my head :) It might be possible for the shop to ship them directly on your behalf, though (some places can).

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Website resources:
• www.mainau.de – Mainau's official website (click on 'english'). View pictures and get information such as prices, times, and concert information. You can even take a virtual tour here!
• www.bsb-online.com – ferry times and prices
• www.hotel.seehof.mdo.de – Hotel Seehof website. It's RIGHT on the water, right next door to the pier, and the perfect location for exploring the pedestrian zone. Only one hangup – you have to park your car at the garage at the other end of the pedestrian zone (about a 5-10 minute walk). You are allowed to drive up to the hotel to load/off-load but you can’t park on their premises.
• www.wilder-mann-meersburg.de – Another hotel in Meersburg (and on the water). It's nicer and pricier than Seehof but it's right next to a parking lot.
• www.meersburg.de – Meersburg's official website (click on the UK flag).

American War Memorial Gallery open!

2006-11-20T05:42:00.000-08:00

It's up and running! Click on the ImageKind link below or type in vicki.imagekind.com/AmericanWarMemorial to visit the American War Memorial Gallery to view and purchase prints of American war memorials. Please remember that every single penny - 100% - of the profits I receive from this gallery are donated to the American Battle Monument Commission for the maintenance and upkeep of these sacred sites! God bless the troops!

Follow-up: France on Veterans Day

2006-11-17T10:34:00.000-08:00

For Veterans Day weekend (which coincidentally is my husband’s birthday so this doubled as a birthday present), we went to France to see as many war memorials as we could. I’ve said this before but it doesn’t matter how many of these cemeteries or memorials I go to, they always strike me as profound. We started at the Lorraine Cemetery in St. Avold, which is the largest WWII cemetery in Europe. Dripping with the morning’s melting frost, the stark white marble crosses seemed to go on forever as the turning leaves dropped gently around them. The Visitors Center employs a very hospitable older gentlemen that was not only excited to see Americans but to share his extensive knowledge on this and other war memorials in France (my husband, who can’t get enough of WWII history, was more than happy to listen to everything). Once outside the center, we visited the chapel – tall and foreboding, it seems to stand watch over the sleeping troops while providing a silent place for reflection. At the other end of the cemetery, a tall stone wall topped with a proud eagle gives the visitor a beautiful view of the grounds. From this point, we watched the groundsmen respectfully place flowers and rub dirt onto the crosses, making the letters more visible in the marble. The silence was only broken when the chimes in the chapel spoke up to play each service’s song. Otherwise, even the birds held their tongues.

We continued on to more memorials, including the Sommepy Memorial, St. Mihiel Cemetery and Memorial, and Meuse-Argonne Cemetery and Memorial. Sommepy is a World War I memorial that still has trenches zigzagging through the area. It’s surreal to stand in the trenches, knowing that the ground below once held crouched men that bled so I could freely stand there many years later. St. Mihiel and Meuse-Argonne are also cemeteries near Verdun. We visited in the pouring rain on Veterans Day and I kept thinking of the song “Holes in the Floor of Heaven”, which alludes to rain actually being tears of those in heaven.

I’ve always loved the word ‘liberty’ – I think it’s one of the most beautiful words in the English language. Seeing it firsthand in these memorials and cemeteries, though, takes the concept of liberty to a whole new level. In order to share these shots of liberty, I’m posting my photography from this trip into a new Imagekind online gallery called ‘American War Memorial Gallery’ (to be up and running next week!). Although these can be purchased just like the ‘Europe For the Senses’ gallery, 100% - every single penny - of the profits from this American War Memorial Gallery will be donated to the American Battle Monument Commission for the continued maintenance of these sacred sites.

God bless the U.S. troops!

Accents Magazine and Book Trailer!

2006-11-14T11:35:00.000-08:00

I have two bits of good news today!

First, I got my very first magazine exposure at the beginning of this month! Have you seen Accents Magazine? It’s the English Language Journal for Baden-Wuerttemburg, Germany. They did a very nice piece on my book for their Nov/Dec issue – click on the link and then scroll down to page 5 (of course, be sure to read the rest of the mag – it’s always very interesting!) You can also pick up your own copy at many of the distribution points around the state of Baden-Wuerttemburg for free or subscribe to get your own copy delivered to your mailbox for a very small fee.

http://www.accents-magazine.de/PDF_docs/issue13.pdf

Second, I have a book trailer! Like a movie trailer, book trailers give readers a taste of its subject and mood. It's currently uploaded on Google, Yahoo, and YouTube although I've found that YouTube has the best resolution.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCN2iViYDQY

Remembering Veterans Day in Europe

2006-11-06T10:32:00.000-08:00

One of the benefits of being in Europe during November is the option of witnessing a Veterans Day ceremony at a number of different memorial sites. Somber, respectful, and eerily silent, these occasions provide a moment to pause and remember those that willingly endured the hellish environment of war, many of whom paid the ultimate price.

Beautifully manicured and decorated with American flags, the memorials stand tall and proud as those they honor once did. The cemeteries rest in perfect rows where the meticulously groomed brave lay in formation, in death as they were in life. To visit profoundly reminds us that although so many were cut down in the prime of their lives and left behind those that loved them deeply, they believed the adage that ‘freedom is not free’ and rose to the world’s call for help. These brave men and women instead chose to resist the terrorists of their time and fought for what they felt was right while knowing they might not make it back alive.

Europe holds a number of possibilities for Veterans Day 2006, whether in France, England, Italy, Belgium, Luxembourg, or The Netherlands. The American Battle Monuments Commission (www.abmc.gov) provides a myriad of information on the memorial sites themselves as well as planned services on the holiday. It also offers a search option for locating family members and friends buried on these sacred grounds.

This year, remember Veterans Day the way it’s supposed to be remembered. War has been a difficult part of almost every generation’s legacy – from the earliest battles in our country’s history to those souls recently joining their deceased brethren of war from the scorching Middle East, to those enduring veterans still with us today – and they don’t deserve to be forgotten.

Bodenmais - Germany's Crystal Town

2006-11-03T07:38:00.000-08:00

When pondering European crystal, the Czech Republic or Austria normally comes to mind. Germany, however, holds its own when it comes to the crystal and glass market. Its sleepy town of Bodenmais, near the German/Czech border, snuggles in among the surrounding Bavarian Forest and promises more than just delightfully sparkling treasures.

Scenery fit for a postcard, Bodenmais is as breathtaking as it is full of fun. The little village, which traces its history as far back as 1300, is chock full of crystal and glass shops along its quiet streets. The Joska factory is the highlight – an enormous complex of shops for watching demonstrations, blowing your own glass, savoring a delicious meal, and of course – purchasing exquisite crystal. Joska has a family-friendly atmosphere about it – little hands and feet can explore its Kinderland. Full of activities, education, and a grand playground, children play safe while the crystal lovers of the family enjoy the delicate wares that the factory has to offer. Not ending its premium customer service at the checkout counter, Joska packs its customer’s finds in cushioning packing paper and study boxes and will even ship internationally, if needed.

There are plenty of other activities in Bodenmais besides those involving glass. What’s crystal without candles to heighten the ambiance? Joska stocks a selection and there are several candle outlets throughout the town. Or handmade wood accents for the home? Bodenmais is home to talented craftsmen. Shopped out? Cross-country skiing is avidly enjoyed in the countryside of Bodenmais. Stores offer ski rentals for visitors before skiing and more offer hearty meals after enjoying the sport. For a more relaxing experience, explore the Silberburg (Silver Mountain). The mines are not only interesting but provide special therapeutic results to those suffering from respiratory disorders. A myriad of other recommendations can also come from one of many friendly families that run the adorable mountainside bed-and-breakfast homes throughout the town.

Full of dazzling crystal, Bodenmais welcomes both local and international visitors to its quaint paradise. Whether in a ‘shop-til-you-drop’ or ‘just let me relax’ mood, Bodenmais beckons you to just breath in the crisp alpine air and enjoy all that awaits.

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Want more information? Check these sites:
• www.joska.com – the website doesn’t do the Joska factory justice, to be honest…there’s SO much to see. For those military families in Germany, bring your VAT form! You can shop at all of Joska’s different shops, then take all of your receipts to the Customer Service counter and get then all put on one VAT form – as long as all your shopping occurs on the same day.
• www.bodenmais.de – official town website. Click on the British flag in the upper right corner for the English version.
• www.weinfurtner.de -- Weinfurtner das Glasdorf – another crystal/glass factory about 20 minutes outside Bodenmais (straight down the road in Arnbruck, so it’s easy to find).
• http://www.haus-michael.de/en/ - adorable bed and breakfast that I’ve stayed at several times. The family is really nice and it’s only 18 euros per night per person, breakfast included!
• Bodenmais is on the ‘Glasstrasse’ (glass road) – if you are feeling a little adventurous, just follow the brown ‘glasstrasse’ signs and you’ll make your way through town after charming town full of glass shops.

Iceland: Untamed and Tourist-Friendly

2006-10-24T09:07:00.000-07:00

Oozing volcanoes, thousands of earthquakes, and countless exploding geysers you can set your watch by – it doesn’t sound like a coveted vacation destination. However, Iceland is quickly becoming the newest hot spot for travelers. Just a hop from the U.S.’s East Coast or Western Europe, this little island country is easier to visit than one would think.

Iceland’s attraction is its untamed countryside. Considering that most of this rugged island is uninhabitable, this leaves much open space and fresh air to the brave adventurer for exploring. The landscape is forever changing as the shifting continental plates refuse to give this country a moment of rest. Stand in awed before raging waterfalls and frozen glaciers, hike deep volcanic craters and rocky lava fields, even enjoy ice fishing, whale watching, puffin and other sea bird watching, kayaking and jet-boating. Iceland can be easily discovered with the help of local tour companies – the only question the tourist must answer is if they prefer to go by bus, snowmobile, or gentle Icelandic horse.

Not into roughing it? Iceland will still satisfy – the country is rich in cultural treasures, indulgences, and a serious patron of the arts. Savor a gourmet meal at a world-class restaurant, take in the unique artistic styles at a museum, learn about the tectonic plates and the Mid-Atlantic Ridge at a geological center, enjoy one of many musical concerts by local, national, or international talent, or soak your cares away in the steamy Blue Lagoon. The lagoon is probably Iceland’s most famous destination as an oasis of heat amid its chilly surroundings. Heated by geothermal energy, the intense cloudy blue waters feel almost scalding at times and are chock-full of healthy minerals. Troughs of soft white silica mud sit warm in the water for visitors to slather on – all while enjoying the balmy sunbeams and the crystal clear sky.

Despite its seemingly cold and uninviting name, Iceland boasts a mixture of friendly people, fascinating traditions, and an unsurpassed landscape. Need to get out?

Right Under My Nose

2006-10-17T09:24:00.000-07:00

As it gets colder and colder, I feel less and less energetic about taking long trips...unless, of course, they involve going south to a warmer climate. I still feel the need to get out and see something, though. Turns out, you can find some pretty interesting places in your own town so I'm always looking for something new to do in Stuttgart.

Not too long ago, an author from NYC contacted me. She said that she'd seen some information about me and my book online but the fact that I was in Stuttgart is what interested her. It turned out that she is a concentration camp survivor and lived in Kippenheim and Jebenhausen - very close to the Stuttgart area. There's a memorial at a train station in downtown Stuttgart and a Jewish museum in her hometown. Of course, this also is of interest to Rob (note previous blog 'One Big Happy Travelin' Family') so we are going to take a train to see the memorial (which has her name as well as several family members' names), leave a flower as a respectful remembrance, and then go out to her hometown and visit. Rob's already given me some very sad information on Terezin - the concentration camp in the Czech Republic where she spent several years in horrific conditions that no person, especially a child, should be subjected to. Yes, it's not a 'happy fun' type of an outing but it not only feeds our interest in the Stuttgart area but ensures that atrocities such as the Holocaust are not only remembered, they are taken in at a personal level.

For those of you that don't make it to the Stuttgart area, visit Inge Auerbacher's website instead: www.ingeauerbacher.com She's the prize-winning author of "I Am A Star", "Beyond the Yellow Star To America", "Running Against The Wind", and "Finding Dr. Schatz". Her website is heartwrenching and hopeful at the same time and I'm looking forward to reading her books!

Deruta, Italy – A Pottery Lover’s Pilgrimage

2006-10-12T11:57:00.000-07:00

Window after window of priceless painted ceramics, a symphony of colors that dance seamlessly together, and terra cotta-colored buildings that have overlooked the area since the Middle Ages– it’s almost too much to take in for visitors of Deruta. The sun warmly shines down on the masters that lovingly knead and massage their clay while shoppers ‘oohh’ and ‘ahhh’ over the gorgeous works of art. A day in Deruta promises a treasure trove of finds as well as the potential of making new friends - all packaged up in a relaxed atmosphere worthy of any Italian town.

Easy to find and tourist-friendly, Deruta sits right off of Autostrada E45 and immediately greets its visitors with rows of ceramic shops and ample parking. Despite housing over 200 retail stores, each offers its own elegantly unique patterns so it’s difficult to not want to see them all. Stop by Cama, right off the main road, for a tour of the facility and a step-by-step journey through the process of ceramics. Cama’s proud of their family-owned company and guests of their factory will see an uncle spinning cool, wet clay into pots and pitchers while mom is sanding the seams from the dried earthenware. Follow the circuit to witness the expert artists paint each creamy white argil into a masterpiece of color. Cama’s work has been given to the Pope so it’s without a doubt, high-quality craftsmanship.

Deruta’s Old Town also offers shoppers a delightful time but in a more charming atmosphere. Aged buildings adorned by painted tiles sit just past the city gates and scream to be noticed. Visitors pop in and out of little stores while the cheerful water fountain in the middle of the cobblestone road provides soft background music. Shop owners greet passersby with smiles and conversation, eager to share information on their wares. Visit Mariam, whose talent is truly astounding. She sets herself apart from other Deruta artists by using shades of green and painting the outside surface of her bowls. Stop by Rolli Reno, who paints exquisite tiles of all sizes and incorporates them into trays, key ring hooks, and frames. His style explodes with a colorful symmetry that can brighten any place it’s displayed in.

Deruta’s the ‘Ceramic of Ceramics’…any piece is sure to become a family heirloom.

National 4-H Week

2006-10-08T07:17:00.000-07:00

Did you know that the first week of October is ‘National 4-H Week’? My sister, Dawn, and I spent about five years in this organization when we were younger, taking everything from ceramics to candlemaking and dog training. I think the most valuable classes I took were in photography. My dad taught each of the classes and I got to use his hand-me-down Canon 35mm (which I still have). I remember learning that you ruin the entire package of light-sensitive paper when you pull them out of the special black envelope under normal room lights. I remember that if you shampoo twice, you can get the smell of the development chemicals out of your hair. I also remember learning the important stuff like shutter speed, light settings, filters, and ISO.

During one of the later years in photography, I had to come up with a photo story for the 4-H fair. This was probably my most unenjoyable project – I enjoyed the close-ups and the action shots but a photo story? Whatever. I ended up photographing the process to make a hard boiled egg…”The Stupid Egg Story” (as I affectionately called it). Well, that ‘stupid’ egg story won over all other photography projects and went on to the State Fair. To be honest, I don’t remember the results at State, but I do remember getting a couple of gift certificates out of the deal.

For the most part, Dawn and I had fun in 4-H. We learned some skills that many of our friends didn’t have, some of which even came in handy many years later. And somewhere in my parent’s basement are the basins, red light, photo paper (inside a black envelope), negative enlarger machine, and smelly chemicals waiting to be enjoyed again.

http://www.4husa.org/

Easy Does It

2006-10-05T05:29:00.000-07:00

Today is one of those days that I crave Italy. I dragged myself out of bed in enough time to get Brady to school while still fighting some kind of tragic sinus infection. When we got outside, we saw frost on the grass and our breath in the crisp, cold air for the first time this season. This made me want to head south and do something that requires very little effort.

Florence is probably the ‘easiest’ city I’ve ever visited…’easiest’ meaning low stress, low effort, and an endless number of things to do. The thing is, I’ve never actually stayed overnight in Florence…that’s what makes it so easy. I always recommend staying somewhere in the countryside and then taking the train in (parking is a nightmare so I don’t bother driving). Ride into the Santa Maria Novella station and most of Florence’s main attractions are within 20 minutes walking distance. The tourist information office across the street from the train station (look for the TI) has free maps. From there, you can stroll to the Medici Chapels, the Duomo Cathedral with its adjacent bell tower and baptistery, the Ponte Vecchio, the colorful street market, and a myriad of art museums. Some of the farther sites can be reached via taxi if the walking starts to wear you out.

What you may not know about Florence is that Nutella was invented here! Actually, not ‘Nutella’ the brand but the concept of this heavenly whipped hazelnut chocolate spread. The Rivoire Café at Via Vacchereccia is where it all started. Called ‘Crema Nocciola al Cacao’, the words ‘delicious’, ‘unbelievable’, or ‘devine’ just don’t cut it. They don’t utter the ‘N’ word here (‘Nutella’) and will give you a stern look if you do. The café has seating both inside and out so you can opt to sit in a quiet booth or people-watch as you savor their chocolate and pastries. It’s the perfect stop in-between sightseeing or shopping.

Speaking of shopping, don’t miss the street market. Anyone that knows me knows that I’m obsessive when it comes to baby soft cashmere pashminas – and you can’t turn around in the market without finding piles of them in all colors and patterns. I think I’ve bought about ten every time I’ve gone but the prices are great and they go with almost anything. Just off the street market is Massimo’s Leather – probably the highest quality leather products in Florence and a great personality to boot. Massimo’s absolutely hysterical…I don’t think I stopped laughing the entire time I was in the shop. I also love visiting the pharmacy at the Santa Maria Novella church. Sounds funny, but it hails as one of the oldest in the world and is operated in the same tradition as when it was founded in the 13th century. Not at all resembling the stark, sterile pharmacies we are used to, the SMN boasts gorgeous architecture, gentle lighting, and soothing smells of its many aromatherapy products.

I could go on and on…there’s just so much in Florence. The best part is that it only requires wandering around and finding these unique spots. Easy does it.

Interlaken, Switzerland: An Unpolluted Paradise

2006-10-03T03:48:00.000-07:00

You’ve got to wonder where the Swiss go to relax and unwind as their entire country is pure heaven. Chocolate, yodeling, mocha-colored cows with bells that gently sing with each step, and charming chateaus – all set within the mountainous bliss of the Alps. I can’t speak for all Swiss, but plenty of them as well as masses of international visitors migrate to the quiet town of Interlaken each year.

Interlaken’s name means ‘between the lakes’…appropriate, as it sits elbow-to-elbow between the Thun and Brienz Lakes. Scenery meant for a jigsaw puzzle, this Swiss Town blends a traditional look with modern times. Ice-cold alpine waters boisterously rush through the town. Colored with a slightly blue-green tinge from the mountain minerals, it provides a source of power for the area. This water power ensures an uninterrupted energy supply and residents and visitors alike enjoy breathing the invigoratingly crisp, fresh air.

A simple walk around town is enough to excite the sense – trendy shops, traditional gifts and books, and restaurants that practically drag in a passerby with the tantalizing aromas floating out from the kitchen. The Metropole Hotel claims the best view in town – climb to its rooftop restaurant and take in the breathtaking panorama while enjoying a tasty lunch. Hikers can continue their strolls up the peaks of the Jungfrau, Eiger, and Mönch Mountains. Those not wanting to travel vertically can instead take a boat ride out on one of the crystal clear lakes that reflect the brilliant blue heavens and towering summits. Conversely, those in need of an adrenaline rush in the mist of this quaint village can hire the services of a local paragliding company. Take a deep breath and jump with one of many experienced paraglider pilots – let the wind gently lift you up and carry you off the side of a mountain, over hundreds of toothpick-sized pine trees. Despite wind-burned cheeks, freezing fingers, and the deafening hum of the cold wind in your ears, a paragliding trip is well worth the unsurpassed birds-eye view of the sparkling lakes below.

Visit My New Online Gallery!

2006-10-01T06:16:00.000-07:00

Finally, it’s ready! Visit my brand new online photography gallery at ImageKind! See every single one of the 182 pictures found in “Europe for the Senses” in full brilliant color. Imagekind offers an array of sizes, finishes, and other options such as matting and framing! Click on the ImageKind button above to link to the site!

Time Off?? I Don't Think So...

2006-09-29T08:30:00.000-07:00

It’s Friday. I’ve been looking forward to today for about 3 weeks now. Why? It’s the end of the fiscal year. I’ve worked like a crazy woman for the last month to get all my projects closed out and to reconcile a $2.5 million dollar budget. Not fun, let me tell you. I’ve taken off this coming Monday and Tuesday as not only a celebration for getting through September but to write some book reviews and to just get out! Here are my options for my time off:

Option 1: It’s Oktoberfest time! Tourists flock to Munich but Germans come to Stuttgart for festivities, food, and beer. Frankly, I don’t drink beer – it tastes like feet (no, I haven’t had feet but if I did, that’s how it would taste). Oktoberfest isn’t all beer, though. We go for the chicken and a chance to see our German neighbors break out of their quiet shells. The rotisserie half-chickens they serve in the big fest tents are not your everyday meal – exploding with flavor right down to the drippings left on the plate (use the hearty French fries to mop those up!). With the deafening oom-pa-pa band going on in the background, it’s an experience to remember!

Option 2: Fall Foliage Viewing. It makes me sad to see the leaves turn colors because I know winter’s just around the corner…and we’d finally shaken him only a short time ago! If it’s sunny this weekend, I’ll drive out of Stuttgart on Autobahn 8 and take in the colors. Lake Starnberg is about 1.5 hours away and is where ‘Mad’ King Ludwig and his physician were both found dead…and the circumstances are still considered ‘mysterious’. There’s an iron cross in the lake where their bodies were found. Yes, a little morbid but I don’t think there’s a better time to photograph this spot – dying leaves, cool fall day, and a silent remembrance of Germany’s most eccentric king.

Option 3: Veg. If the weather isn’t good, I was planning on holing up at home with some books and homemade bruschetta. I’ll have some Enya going in the background and light all the candles in the house. Maybe take a nap, too…

So what will it be, you ask?? None of the above, actually! An option 4 has presented itself:

Option 4: My husband goes to the hospital in an ambulance where they find three kidney stones. During a second x-ray session, one of the stones starts moving and he gets whisked off to surgery. I get to eat a cold flammkuchen (kind of like pizza bread) I bought from the main train station’s bakery while the pizza pocket I bought for my ailing husband gets colder on the table. And that book I brought to keep occupied? I finished that hours ago…

Option 4 it is. Surgery took an hour and they were able to remove one of the stones. Rob will stay at the hospital for observation and pain meds. They’ll do another ultrasound session on Monday to try and break up the remaining stones into smaller pieces. I spent six grueling hours at the hospital today and foresee some very long days ahead…

So, the moral of the story is: when life hands you kidney stones, bring along a deck of cards and have some laughs. You can always plan again.

One Big Happy Travelin' Family

2006-09-28T10:49:00.000-07:00

So what do you do when you like to travel to places that your significant other doesn’t? And what about the kids? They don’t want to travel at all. Traveling is one of those times where you DO need to make everyone happy.

Take my family for example. I could hit every castle, cathedral, church, monastery, and ruins in the entire country of Germany and never get bored (I actually have hit them all in the greater Stuttgart area). But if I start to mention a potential trip to my husband, “hey, I was thinking about visiting this cas…” Right there, his eyes are already rolling. My son, although a great sport about being dragged to every location I’m interested in, would much rather sit and watch Toon Disney all afternoon. Here’s where a little research will pay off big time.

Know (or get to know) what your other family members are into. Rob will salivate at any war-related history site and Brady’s fine with the kid-friendly spots. So, before we set off for that castle, I’ll look for anything and everything related to WWI or II – concentration camp, museum, monument, tour, etc. I’ll also look for parks, playgrounds, botanical gardens (those usually have animals), animal museums (Germany’s full of petting zoos, reptile or spider museums), lakes with paddleboats, whatever might give Brady the opportunity to run around and burn some energy or see something creepy crawly.

Once you have something for everyone, plan your time. When we went to Ulm, my goal was to see the cathedral and climb to the top of the spire. Rob and Brady came along and explored the sanctuary with me but I took on the hundreds of spiraling stairs by myself. After I got to the bottom, we all continued to an old concentration camp. Rob spent time studying the pictures in the museum while I kept Brady occupied. After lunch, we visited a bird aviary where lush plants grew in large, domed cages. We found ourselves nose-to-beak with all kinds of exotic species of birds (watch out for aerial bombs, though :)

Another option is to split up. When we visited Berlin, Rob hopped a tour to the Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp while Brady and I took a train to Castle Sanssouci and Gardens. We met up later that afternoon to share what we’d seen. This way, nobody had to sit and wait for ‘the boring stuff’ to be over with. Everybody’s happy!

Church or Cathedral??

2006-09-26T09:25:00.000-07:00

Did you know that there’s a difference between a ‘church’ and a ‘cathedral’? When you travel throughout Europe, you’ll run into them in all sizes – from the rural, humble ones that are content to be nestled next to a mountain to the majestic ‘I dare you to not feel in awed when you step inside’ ones. How do you tell which boast the title of ‘cathedral’? I’ll give you a hint…it’s not in the architecture…

I didn’t learn the answer to this question until I visited Cologne, Germany last year. Cologne (or Köln) is home to Germany’s second tallest cathedral (515 feet). Archbishop Konrad von Hochstaden began construction in 1248 and it took on 14 aerial bombs during WWII yet stood its ground. My Grandpa Krape remembers seeing it after the bombing. He says, “when I went through [the cathedral] during the war, there was mounds of rubble inside on the floor. Several priests were walking around the rubble on paths through it, saying their prayers. One could see daylight through the roof in spots. The 3 doorways lined with statues had been defaced and some beheaded. Someone obviously stood outside with a machine gun - the bullet knick marks rose as he turned due to the gun climbing as it’s fired.”

Wandering through the Cologne Cathedral leaves you taken aback by its sheer magnitude. Stand at the very end of the center aisle and watch the sanctuary almost grow in front of you, higher and higher. The walls are almost covered in stunning stained glass windows which let a rainbow of light in and make the stone pillars glow. Study each glass panel, which is a work of art in and of itself. I recommend the tour…normally I don’t take these but this one was very good…and you learn the answer to nagging questions such as ‘what’s the difference between a church and a cathedral?’ Have you guessed it yet (I gave a tiny hint in the second paragraph :) It’s actually very simple…much more than I would have guessed. A ‘church’ is a building where religious services are held. A ‘cathedral’ is that AND enjoys the presence of a bishop or archbishop. So even if a building is monstrously gothic-sized, if there’s no bishop it’s only a ‘church’.

The Cologne Cathedral will also let visitors climb up into her spires. The staircase will give your legs a hearty work-out and when you get to the top, look straight up through the pinnacle as the sun casts interlacing shadows all around you. Leave the spire for a walk around the top while enjoying the almost limitless view of the surrounding area. Make sure you rest before heading down – my legs felt like jello by the time I got back down to the bottom!

Can't cook? So travel!

2006-09-24T10:03:00.000-07:00

Europe can be daunting for the first-time tourist…it can be down right terrifying as a matter of fact. When I first learned that we’d be moving to Europe, I was livid. We’d just bought a house, I’d just graduated from college, AND I’d just had a baby…I definitely didn’t want anymore life changes! Yet, the Army doesn’t exactly sympathize with that so off we went. I didn’t know anything about my surroundings or the language and my husband was deployed about a month after we got moved in. Talk about being scared...

If you are interested in seeing a certain area of Europe but are a little scared to do so on your own, why not check out a cooking school? My absolute favorite has been Faye Hess’ “Cucina Casalinga” in Italy. Faye is a NY chef who spends her time cooking up a storm (and an upcoming book) in Long Island City as well as teaching Umbrian cooking in the heart of Tuscany. Faye’s school feeds the hearts of both tourists and aspiring chefs – the mornings and early afternoons are spent exploring the countryside, tasting Italian wines and cheeses, and visiting ancient cities while the late afternoon and evenings have her students cooking tasty Italian delicacies. She cooks with all the love of a true Italian and her kitchen is always full of laughter and friendship.

I have to admit, I’ve been to Faye’s school more than once…but it’s addicting! My heart craves Italy, especially during the chilly winter months when the sun ignores Germany. When I do get to Tuscany, I actually cry. It sings to me. Couple that with a week worth of learning new recipes, making new friends, and savoring the relaxed Italian atmosphere...I’ve found my bliss.

Find out about Faye Hess’ cooking school at www.kitchensister.com

The Best-Kept Secret of Garmisch, Germany

2006-09-21T10:51:00.000-07:00

Garmisch, Germany boasts of many things – the breathtaking Bavarian Alps, perfectly-carved wooden houses with flowerboxes that spill over with color, the delicate edelweiss alpine blossoms, mouth-watering schnitzel, stout German beer, and a myriad of talented local craftsmen. But did you know that at the edge of this quaint, picture-perfect town lies a violent display of Mother Nature? Known in German as the ‘Partnachklamm’, it hides behind the old Olympic Stadium and attracts hundreds of hikers each year.

So what exactly is the Partnachklamm? In a nutshell, it’s a struggle to the death – a knock-down, drag-out brawl between the Partnach River and a limestone gorge. The river peacefully runs through the trees until it hits the 262-foot tall gorge. From there the river’s personality turns to fury as it slams into the rock walls, throwing its temper tantrum for over 2,300 feet before calming down again and continuing to flow through the Bavarian countryside. Visitors follow a carved-out rock path from the entrance to the gorge and up a gradual incline to experience firsthand what nature is capable of. Don’t forget your raincoat, though! You may be able to avoid the mist from the tumbling cascades but the spray from the waterfalls above will most definitely christen you!

There are several ways to experience the Partnachklamm, each holding its own delight for the visitor. Late spring through summer will provide a green backdrop on the limestone rocks while the chilly alpine waters almost deafen its company. In colder months, the gorge becomes an enchanting world of icicles and snow. Check first before showing up during the winter, though…too much snow and ice will force the gorge to close for safety reasons. It’s also possible to visit during the day or the night – daytime offers better views while the warming sunbeams force their way through the foliage. After dark, torch-lit tours are offered, giving the gorge a mystical quality. Regardless of season or time of day, once you’ve made your way through this hidden natural treasure, continue up the mountain for a robust hike and then relax at the Forsthaus Graseck’s restaurant. The food is excellent and the views are breathtaking. While indulging in their cuisine, ponder how you’ll get back down – take the same path through the gorge or a restful two-minute ride down in the cable car. Either way, a trip to the Partnachklamm is well worth it!

I'm Blogging!

2006-09-18T12:45:00.000-07:00

I feel so far behind! The first time I'd even heard of a 'blog' was when my friend and former piano instructor, Kristin, got to Iceland a couple of years ago and started one. I had no idea what it was (and you've got to admit, the word itself is goofy) but it kept me updated on what she was up to and how great Iceland was. Now, hopefully, I'm catching up with the rest of the world...

So, I'm starting this blog to not only get the word out on my book but to write about some fantastic places in Europe that most travelers haven't even heard of. So many people come to Europe with a 'checklist' of sites that they rush though...at the end of their 'vacation', they are worn out and remember the two or three week blur through their destination countries. Don't get me wrong, I'm not dissuading going to the major sites at all. I'm simply suggesting a mixture of the popular sites that all tourists hoard to and those that you can experience almost all by yourself. You definitely can't see everything in one trip so the things you do get to see should be relished. Savor each sight - from larger-than-life Big Ben to the little perturbed-looking water fountain man in Karlsruhe Gardens (Germany). Each one holds a special memory for you to look back on for years to come.

With that, I'm announcing the release of my book, "Europe For The Senses - A Photographic Journal":

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
CONTACT:
Penny C. Sansevieri (858) 560-0121 penny@amarketingexpert.com

A Photographic Taste of Europe: ‘Europe for the Senses’ explores the far reaches of Europe--in sight and prose

GERMANY - "Tourists come to Europe and try to cram in as much as they can in a short amount of time, but the unfortunate thing is they often overlook the best part of Europe: the splendor of a small German village at dawn, the ruins of a once grand castle, and the rows upon rows of tulips bursting with color," says Vicki Landes, creator of 'Europe for the Senses - A Photographic Journal'. Landes, who lives in Germany with her military husband, has been able to travel extensively and shares her most personal photographs of a more intimate Europe than tourists ever get to see. 'Europe for the Senses' captures the essence of the quaint villages, majestic castles, and narrow roads that weave their way through Europe. Landes, who has a self-proclaimed photography addiction, has traveled to 45 countries during her husband's time in Stuttgart, Germany.

'Europe for the Senses' is a collection of photography and creative writing meant to transport the reader to each respective destination with stimulating sensory imagery. Experience the sights, smells, sounds, and touch that make Europe so remarkable. Whether you've traveled to Europe many times or hope to visit there someday, this wonderful gift book will invoke a craving for these far-away countries and all the small and remarkable details waiting to be discovered.

"Landes' new book takes a different approach. Rather than offering readers just gorgeous photographs, she provides a personal narrative of what it would be like for someone viewing the particular scene." --Ellen Tanner Marsh, New York Times Best Selling Author

"I feel like I'm there! Vicki's photography coupled with her descriptive writing instantly transports the reader to the most intriguing parts of Europe." --Faye Hess, Italian cuisine and culture expert, author of upcoming book, "Kitchen Sister"