Europe For The Senses

Author/Photographer Vicki Liston blogs on her book and some interesting places she's traveled. "Europe for the Senses - A Photographic Journal" was published under the name 'Vicki Landes'.

Friday, March 16, 2007

The Wieskirche: Rococo Gem in the Middle of a Field

Where can you go to see one of the most beautiful examples of rococo architecture in Germany? An open field, of course! This answer may surprise you when considering it’s a place where millions have made a pilgrimage journey to pay homage to the resident icon. Yet once you see it for yourself, you’ll see how ironically perfect it is for such a proud and ornate structure to stand alone in a humble pasture.

Situated near the Bavarian town of Steingaden, the Wieskirche (also called Church of the Field) exists to house the ‘Scourged Savior’. The wooden statue, due to its deplorable façade, was put into storage at a nearby monastery in 1735 then moved to a local couple’s farmhouse three years later. Within months, the couple professed to see tears from the eyes of the icon. The news of this miracle spread quickly and before long, the couple became inundated with worshippers. A small chapel was constructed in 1739 but it proved to be inadequate for the multitudes making their way to pray to the Scourged Savior. In 1745, Dominikus Zimmermann took on the daunting task of creating a sanctuary worthy of a miraculous sculpture – and the results are breathtaking.

A long, reflective road leads to the field of the Wieskirche, where even the Alps in the background stand in reverence. From the outside, it looks like a typical Bavarian church – quaint, picturesque, and worthy of any jigsaw puzzle. But just as a book should not be judged by its cover, so should a Bavarian church not be judged by its location or exterior. That point is proven with only one step inside its sanctuary as the scenery goes from serene to practically ostentatious. Large glass windows intensify the sunbeams and hurl them into the crisp, white hall dripping with gold accents. Lift your eyes upwards where the trompe-l’oeil gives the illusion of seeing into heaven. Awe-inspiring and absolutely faultless, the busy frescoes are full of clouds, angels, and other heavenly figures surrounding Christ perched atop a rainbow. Although the ceiling itself is worth the visit, the centerpiece of the church is still the aged wooden statue, appropriately placed in the middle of the alter. Whether or not you believe the story of the miracle tears, the icon remains a beautiful work of art and the very reason why this church stands today.

Travelers have several options when planning a visit to the Wieskirche. The church hold Catholic services as well as music concerts so those in attendance can enjoy these events in the most spectacular of surroundings. During the remainder of the times, visitors can either wander the sanctuary on their own or take a tour to fully appreciate the church’s nuances. Whatever the inclination, the Wieskirche is sure to enchant and inspire.

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